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A Less Expensive Sealed Beam Alternative - For 1953- up 6V

R

Red Mist

Well-known Member
Howdy Boys:
My SM had 12V replacement sealed beams in it. Of course, they were dim since my tractor is 6V. Maybe someone sells them cheaply, but the prices I've seen from the vendors for 6V sealed beams are pretty sporty.
I don't care about having the "correct" Guide sealed beams, so I went to the local NAPA store and they fixed me up with lamp #4511 for about $15.00 each. They didn't quite fit because of an indexing boss in the glass near the rear outer edge. Took them to the local glass shop and had the boss ground off. $5 each. Bingo! Bright lights. Fit like a glove and for about half price of a Guide brand. These are GE. Thought this might be useful information for someone here on the forum....
By the way.... they fit even easier/better after I slit about a 1/16" ("spaghetti string") from around the back edge of the rubber headlight boot.
mike
 
I bet a Dremel or similar tool would take that boss off pretty handy. I didn't notice it on my NAPA lights.
 
RM, Thanks for the tip. I use a 53 Stage II SH for light jobs around here and I'll get a set for it. Didn't want to pony up for the "CP bulbs".
They will fit the flat style housings?

Gordo
 
No it won't. Tires several times. They crack every time. Too hot. Must be water cooled to work and and vibration and crack.

What I do is take the sealed beams apart and replace the inner bulb. Then just use a little silicone to put the glass back on the sealed beam. Try it sometime. You will be surprised well it works. I solder in a lamp holder then I got a replaceable bulb in the guide sealed beam.

The only thing that looks different is the back of the lamp. There is a wire coming out of the back of the lamp holder vs the screw terminal.
 
The pics show the 6 volt sealed beam 2 wire bulbs that I adapted to the pancake housings on this cub. I ground the boss off myself being very careful taking very light cuts. The boot in the hole in the back is from a plug cap like you find on hyd. fittings when purchased. I was pleased with the finished product.
Dan Robertson
2%20wire%20sealed%20%20beam%20headlights%20002.jpg

2%20wire%20sealed%20%20beam%20headlights%20001.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 18:34:38 12/18/09) RM, Thanks for the tip. I use a 53 Stage II SH for light jobs around here and I'll get a set for it. Didn't want to pony up for the "CP bulbs".
They will fit the flat style housings?

Gordo
Click to expand...
Hi, Gordo. Yes, they fit fine. As for how well they hold up, all I can tell you is that they are the same style as the 12v ones that were on the tractor for years.
mike
 
(quoted from post at 06:50:31 12/19/09) I knocked the bosses off mine with a benchtop belt sander.
Click to expand...
Good idea, mkirsch. I walked right past my belt sander as I went out of the barn on my way to the glass shop. Never gave it a thought.....
mike
 
Do you have a front & mid blade on that Cub? Can you post a couple more pics? I've never thought of that...I'd like to do the same with ours, thankyou
 
i was gonna link to some parts and pieces at tmtractor to show how you could approach this from another angle with ready to bolt in parts, but they are shut down for awhile to move operations. You could buy the lenses and a reflector for the pancake style and convert it to a replaceable bulb. (was also going to look there to make sure i was giving accurate info). It does cost a little more for the initial conversion but when done, a headlight bulb is cheaper than a headlight sealed assembly.
i was thinking about doing this as a christmas present for my H, now i have to wait and see if they have a successful move.

karl f
ps they also had the resistors only for the LHDB and ODB light switches.
 
Dan, that looks neat. close enough to correct that a purist might not catch it on first look. just lose the blue insulator on the crimp terminal :)

karl f
 
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