Cracked block C-113

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What would be best way to fix hair line crack 6 to 8 inches long on C-113 its behind carb have it torn down. As I dont have a spare block have a A and B block dont have place for hydro pump on them. Thanks in advance
 
There is a fix called "stitching". This is done by drilling a small hole and threading a cast iron plug into the hole. You than cut off the top and drill another hole, removing part of the first plug you just installed. Keep on going until you reach the other end. Google "stitching". I found some real good fixes done this way. I had the head done on my 650 IHC and it worked great.
 
You can have it stitched, as described below.
Or, since it is in the lower water jacket, which is not pressurized, many of them get repaired by cleaning out the crack, filling it with epoxy, smooth it out and paint over it. Chances are the repair will last as long as the tractor does. If it's done right, nobody will even know it has been fixed.

I've even seen them "fixed" by filling the crack with RTV silicon. Seals the crack, but paint won't stick to it too good.

Many, many of these blocks have been repaired due to a crack in this area.
 
V out the crack some, and repair with JB Weld, and grind it smooth. As stated, it's not pressurized. I had one where the crack went across the top of two pistons. I considered that one junk. The tractor had been in a flood in North Idaho, then froze over the winter. The plugs were out. All that water got in the spark plugs, and when it froze it really made a mess. I never did get those pistons out of there, I just ended up throwing the engine away.
 
I had a badly broken block for a Super C (C-123) repaired by a local crankshaft rebuilding shop. They spray welded the cracks up on the deck and just brazed the crack in the water jacket. It cost me $288, less than the price of a used block.

Start checking with welding shops that deal with race motors. They'll fix all kinds of stuff and have a big oven to preheat cast iron.

Greg
 
I had a piece 2" X 12" froze out of one I had. I took it to the best welder in the county and he
told me to clean it good with a wire wheel then
wash it with lacquer thinner and glue it back in with JB weld. The block was out of the tractor
so I could lay it on its side. That was 8 yrs ago
and it"s still in there. The block in that area
is only about 1/8" thick.
 
I have used fiberglass,jb weld but i like the rubber cement they use to fasren the windshields in place best. Grind a small v then apply when wet you can use a stiff brush to make it look rough. Its not uncommon for those blocks to crack there and with a small crack like yours not hard to fix. I have welded and ground smooth but the rubber cement sure is faster and much eaiier.
 
(quoted from post at 06:04:35 12/18/09) I have used fiberglass,jb weld but i like the rubber cement they use to fasren the windshields in place best. Grind a small v then apply when wet you can use a stiff brush to make it look rough. Its not uncommon for those blocks to crack there and with a small crack like yours not hard to fix. I have welded and ground smooth but the rubber cement sure is faster and much eaiier.

Are you talking about the black sticky stuff, butyl rubber?
 
I think Gene is referring to Windshield urathane, stuff ya have to buy at automotive paint and body shop supply store or windshield repair shop.

If you use it be sure to wear rubber gloves, because if you get it on your hands, you have to wear it off!!!

Keith & Shawn(Gold Medal Winner)
 

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