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My Super C won't start

T

TreeFarmer1414

Member
In September when using the Super C, it started to tick. The tick gradually elevated to a knock. It got to the point where I shut the tractor off and it would not re-start. Two weeks ago, I finally took time to check things out. The rotor in the distributor was not turning. So yesterday more wrenches and I started to take things apart. Ended up taking the governor housing off. The 33 teeth gear has eight consecutive missing teeth. You can see at least one broken tooth on the matching 66 tooth camshaft gear as well. What's the chance the 33 tooth gear on the crank also has missing teeth? How difficult is it to repair? Will these parts be hard to find? Would it be easier to replace the whole governor assembly and not just the gear with the missing teeth? Will the front tires and pedestal have to be removed? I know these are way too many questions but this will be my maiden voyage on this type of repair. How does everything get timed when putting it back together? I am sure there will be more questions. But, then again, you guys can sure be helpful with the answers. Thanks in advance for your help.
 
I had that happen to my 140, just cleaned it up and got a new 33 tooth gear for the distibuter And its been working great .You can still get them from the case dealer. Erik..
 
Timing it all back up needs to wait for later. In the meantime you need to get that timing cover off and see just what you have going on. Not only the crank gear, but the cam gear in between the crank and governor/ignition gears. And dropping the pan to remove the shards.

Best is to get the front away (yes, a split) pull the crank pulley and governor, and remove the timing cover. That will expose all three gears (four, counting the hydraulic pump).

Inspect,evaluate, and go from there.
 
I took a bunch of pictures when I overhauled my Super-A"s engine. It"s the only tractor I ever had, but the engines are similar. Don"t know if they"ll be any help but I"ll dig them up if there"s things you want to see. The Super-C guys will have to explain any differences.
One lucky feature of my offset tractor was that once the front end was jacked-up, the whole front steering assembly, including the steering wheel, came off in one piece, still steerable(!), and I walked it over from my shop to my pole.
 
just had that happen to my 44 b the governor thrust bearing is a ball bearing and it lost it's balls and that is what tookout the teeth on the gov,cam and crank gears. I got used ones from a salvage yard that have worked fine, but make sure to check that governor bearing and your oil pan. good luck
 
You will have to remove radiator and steering sector before removing the crank pulley. Then you will see what teethand where they are all missing. The front pulley needs a bearing splitter to put behind the pulley as its a press fit then use a three jaw puller. The crank gear is also a press type fit and will need to be heated to remove. Used parts can be found easy. Ifn ya cant get them local i would have them. You should buy the I@T manual it shows how the timing marks line up. Does the gov shaft need re-bushing as i also do them. Sure makes a difference in throttle response w2hen things are in shape.
 
Here's how you retime your timing gear, governor gear and the crankshaft gear. Hal
PS: The crankshaft gear has one dot that meshes
with the one dot on the camgear. The governor
drive gear has one dot that meshes with the two dots on the camgear
r01qog.jpg
 
I did the same thing on a Farmall A back in 1975.
Once I got that out of the way and had the tractor supported I set a 12 X 12 oak block under the drawbar and pulled the engine. Hal
 
You may need to bring No1 piston to TDC on the compression stroke when you get the new parts installed. Then see where your rotor is pointing
it should be at the No1 plug tower. If its off you will need to pull the distributor and rotate the rotor so its at the No1 plug tower. Hal
 
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