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O.T. CHEVY P/U 350 3500

E

ericy

Member
HAS any one ever had or heard of an "oil cooler " kit on a 350 s.b. i have a 1992 3500 deully p/u that the "oil cooler " thing blew out the other day on my way to work at 4:30 a.m. 11' out had to run it 2 miles to town at 0 oil presuer did it hurt the motor? can i save it? can i take that "thing off" and put the oil filer back on. it is bolted to the block then the filter on bottom they "maybe" a gasket in there that let loose ? a nother great thing chevy came up with I know why its on but i only pull 1 tractor 30 miles a few times a year not gonna pull it a cross the country with 4 tons at 75 mph
 
these trucks were kown to have these lines leak. the lines run up to the radiator and you are not able to get new lines. You can take them loose were they attach by the oil filer and plug the holes and be just fine.
 
well to nite i went under the truck and saw oil coming out from that oil thingy i dont know if i can just plug the lines looks like oil coming ahead of that "thing" will have to remove it and look, trying to find a part that will match up at jegs.com they have one that will work and can get it tuesday but i dont have a c-card
 
you probably did hurt the motor running it with no oil pressure for two miles. cold or not, you have to stop when something like that happens...if you do not want to replace the motor.

Go to your local auto parts store and buy a generic off the shelf oil cooler and mount it to the radiator, then extend your lines to it.

OR

Cap off the lines where they exit the block if you do not want to retain the oil cooler.
 
Define "oil thingy"... did an oil cooler hose blow or did the oil cooler fail, or did an "o" ring or gasket fail on the adapter between the engine block and the oil filter?

Simply find out what's leaking and repair it. I wouldn't think any "rocket science"would be involved. Lines are readily available and gasket/"o" ring kits are available if that's where the leak is.

Also, if you choose the remove the cooler and lines and plug the holes in the adapter the oil cooler bypass valve will have to operate at all times since the flow path through the cooler has been eliminated.
 
I have seen the kind of setup you are talking about a time or two. It was some kind of option.

To make it like any other small block simply remove the two 1/4-20 bolts that hold the oil filter adapter (the "thingy") onto the block. ( You'll have to take the two lines loose from it first) Replace that with the regular oil filter adapter from any small block that uses the spin on filter, you can get one from a junk yard or buy new from a dealer or Summit.
Then you're in business.

If you weren't loaded you may be ok, especially if it didn't get hot or anything else. Also depends somewhat on what kind of oil you were running.

If it were my truck I would do the above and put on a new filter, put in more oil and see how it's doing. If there's no obvious knocking then run it a week or so and then take the filter off and look at the top of it for metal bits. If none then I wouldn't worry about it.
 
cen tex.....that is a good idea that oil "thingy" is the bad part, o-ring is out and its alum. it did knock after i shut it down i put oil in it and found that oil is pourin out, cant hear it knock now with some oil in it ... i cant get the truck in the barn with all the "stuff" in the way , right now its in the drive way holdin water in a low spot when it drys up or gets cold to freez ill try to get to it. just started a new job and with a 11 month old to watch at nite cant get any work done
 
The hardest part will be getting the lines loose. Removing the adapter will be relatively easy. You can get the other adapter from any small or even big block at a junkyard, doesn't have to be just a 350. Hear ya on watching the little ones!
 
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