A electrical issues??

Hi guys, My A has not been holding a charge, I have replaced batteries, repolerized the generator etc. Not sure if it is a generator issue, regulator (more likely because it doesn"t show any movement in needle)or what.

Looking for some advice or I may possibly want to convert to a 12 volt system. I am in the process of ordering the parts for my starter (gear wont hit ring gear just spins) so any advice on that would be great. Thanks!

My Troubleshooting Procedure Para. 5 has a test to see if non charging is caused by the Genny or Voltage Regulator etc., no use in reinventing the wheel every time this question gets posted I figure. A shop can laod test the battery for free.

I am NOT a fan of 12 volt conversion on small easy to crank tractors, rather prefer use of a big heavy battery and 0 or 00 Gauge Battery n Sarter n ground cables which can help.

John T
John Ts Troubleshooting

Could be components. Could be corroded or broken connections.

Check out the link.
JohnTs Most Excellent Troubleshooting Guide for Charging Issues

You're a gem, John! Which sounds like, but ain't jst perzackily like a demijohn, whose contents are best left alone until the electrical work is done.

Your troubleshooting guides and BobM's wiring diagrams may be the two most heavily linked references in all of YTville.

I converted mine to 12 volt and have never looked back. 1 wire self exciting from NAPA about $45.00 I used the wiring harness on the tractor 1 wire from altenator to the amp gauge then amp guage to the starter button. Bolted the altenator to the front of the gen bracket and added 1 1/2 piece of flat rod to adjustment bracket and it lined up perfecrt to the pulley. I cant remember the belt # but I can get it off the other computer if you need it. I can also send you pictures to. I had about $56.00 in the conversion.

wow thanks a lot guys!, Yes I would like some pictures and possibly some more detail on that one wire conversion. Thanks

Starting fresh with solutions: It either has a Cutout relay and a Light switch controlled charge rate, or if it was purchased without lights, it might have a cutout relay with a field resistor.
It could also have a Voltage regulator with possibly four wires on it (or three) and no light switch control of charge rate.
If the needle is not moving it is (more than likely) not charging. If it is not it will not "hold a charge" because it isn't getting any (electricity from the gen).
Slow charge the battery until it is fully charged.
That might help, the starter. The starter can spin W/O engaging if the battery is low.
Next, Not running, with battery installed (positive ground) and all wires connected, use a good jumper wire to jump between the Bat terminal and the Gen terminal on the cutout relay (or regulator). This should make a nice spark, but not harmful. Next start it up and run it at 3/4 throttle. Look at the amp gauge. if charging it is fixed!
If not leave it running as above, and jump the Field (F) terminal on the Gen to ground. This should have a small spark and the gen should charge. If it does, the VR is either not grounded well, or the Charge control (light switch) L or H position is not functioning. The link will make it work! JimN
John T Charging System check the good stuff

I was busy making a list and checking it twice when all through the house came the whole team coursing through the sky!!! Jim

Yeah pics would be helpful, if its easier send them to [email protected] Thanks a lot

One wire conversions are OK (but) The most trouble free systems are three wire as described in Bob Ms diagrams. The 3 wire is especially important if the tractor is allowed to sit for extended periods. JimN

I will send pictures and part #'s Monday Afternoon.

everyone allways talks about the unreliability of the 1 wires. I have never had any trouble with them. Maybe the fact that I have battery disconnects on my tractors for the down times.

There are about 5 + manufacturers and remanufacturers making the systems. They are far from all the same. I would recommend them if the current draw when shutoff was very low. Some draw quite a little power when off to excite at startup. Some much less. I do not know models of one wire systems or stores that will spec that draw current. I do know that some of them draw as much as leaving the key on. That will not do. So I recommend doing it like the designer of the alternator had in mind. Not a defense, just an opinion from experience, and owners on this site that have had serious issues with discharged Batteries (which freeze into useless lead when it is cold) JimN

Thanks, I know its wayyyyyyyyy more then most people need and it would be more help for the poster to answer each question specifically butttttttttt that would take so much time and duplication and I spend enough time here the way it is anyway lol but enjoy it and glad to help. Its those wide open "tractor doesnt charge" questions that I just post the link and let em jump in......

Yall have a good evening n early Merry Christmas

John T

Yep! Same thing here. There are so many "won't charge" posts and requests for wiring schematics, I just paste my bookmarks for you two in as appropriate.

Hope you're enjoyin' the season, too.

Indeed. John's method and Bob's diagrams are invaluable links to be able to paste up, but I'm as amazed today as I was the day I first showed up here almost ten years ago at the number of people, new and old, who chime in. I especially like when somebody you or I might remember as a newbie jumps in and has the knowledge or the trick that answers the question or solves the pesky problem.

I agree with JohnT that a tractor designed for 6v should run fine on 6v if well maintained. But I'm not absolutely against the 12v conversion if all else fails.
I think Farmallfan is onto something. If the system is broke, fix it. After it is is fixed and in good charging order, disconnect the ground wire from the battery if the unit is going to be setting more than a week. I believe a lot of problems could be avoided if more people would do this.
I secure my hot cable to the battery and make sure it is down on the post as far as it will go. I either spread if far enough or tap it gently down to the bottom using a socket just larger than the post. It has been my experience that they last longer this way.
I am interested in what farmallfan uses for a quick disconnect for his battery ground wire....a toggle? plug?
Dell

A quick disconnect used on RV's terminal with stud attaches to the neg post on the battery, then you have a post attached to a plastic nut that attaches to the battery cable. Put the two halfs together and tighten nut you are connected. Loosen nut and take appart and you are disconnected. It takes about 10 seconds and cost around $7.00

Hey Dell, I always pull the positive cable and leave the negative connected. No problems yet. Is there a difference?

I've noticed 6" of snow sitting on the battery but it hasn't shorted out or anything. Guess there is always the possibility of rain, snow, ice, sleet, etc sitting on the battery between the posts but I've never noticed any problems with it. I brush it off and it cranks over. Anyone ever have any trouble cause of this? Suppose I should carry the battery in the barn like last winter. Thanks.