Farmalls and block heaters

ryanwheelock · Dec 11, 2009

Just was wondering why it seems like my IH T-340 Dozer will start when its in the single digits without a block heater, were both of my older farmall H's wont start unless they've been plugged in to warm up. Does it have to do with the bearing clearances? I know changing to a oil thats better in the cold helps but the H's still wont start in the cold. They were that way when I was a little kid and my grandpa owned them.

Does anyone have a H that starts in single digits without a block heater?
Thanks
Ryan in northern michigan

gene bender · Dec 11, 2009

A good battery good cables and a starter up to par and they will start. Neighbor would grind feed for the hogs at least three times a week and the same time our M did the same and they started all winter long and they still will.When was the last time the starter was serviced with new bushings ,brushes remember its probably 50yrs old and needs some good freshing up.

riverbend · Dec 11, 2009

My H will start when it is around zero, but it is more willing if the battery gets warmed up with a charger for half an hour.

I think the real problem is that the gas is not evaporating when it is cold. Sticking a heater magnet on the intake manifold helps when it is really below zero.

I'm adding a second 6V battery in parallel to get more cranks out of it when it is cold. Choking the tractor for 2 cranks is plenty at 30F. At 0-10F it needs 4 or 5 cranks before it will fire.

It sounds like we will be sending you some more chilly air early next week...

Greg
Delano, MN

Anonymous-0 · Dec 11, 2009

Pull your switch on, turn your lights on for 30-60 seconds and then try to start. That warms all the wiring and battery up and really helps a lot. My Super M always started that way even in below 0 temps, without any heaters, etc. Main thing is to make sure everything is tuned up and in top operating condition, and starting and running every day helps.

Dave H (MI) · Dec 11, 2009

Good question! I am really bad at this as the nature of my work keeps the old tractors locked up all winter and I use a newer diesel with glo-plugs for plowing. This year, however, things are a little slow and I have been out playing in this !@#!! cold weather. I tried starting four tractors and managed to get three going. The diesel obviously and the MTA...OH, excuse me!...the "S"MTA started right up. The little B was a ten minute project to get going and I was never happy with the way it ran. The 2N t'ain't haven none of it and it was a great starter at 20 degrees. Still tinkering with the genny on that one and I think I need to turn it up. Think I will try that idea with the lights too...it makes sense.

pete 23 · Dec 11, 2009

H's start good when cold, if it turns over good, winter grade gasoline, and engine oil like 10
w or 5w30 and engine in good tune and reasonably good shape. If you have a 6 volt battery in the original size battery box it can be difficult to find a battery that size with really good cranking cold cranking power and or ampere hour ratings. Like others have said, good heavy cables, starter in good shape, I will add on starter to make sure it has a center bearing as some did not and under heavy cold starting torque situations it can cause armature drag. And it does help some to turn on the lights for a little while to help surface of plates on battery to warm a bit. Slow charge for a while before trying works good also. Many variables.
During cranking the voltage will drop to about 5 volts or less so coil will naturally produce a weaker spark than at normal operating voltage of about 7.2 volts. Low voltage causes less current to flow through the primary winding in coil there for producing a weaker magnetic field in the secondary coil winding and you end up with a weaker spark .

scot in pa · Dec 11, 2009

Chrysler had a trick for getting a hotter spark when starting. The post on the key switch for the starter also had a wire to the coil that bypassed the resistor.

If only I could come up with a way to do that with the SM. But it doesn't have a solenoid.

karl f · Dec 12, 2009

Scot, run a wire from the starter terminal of the switch to the coil.

karl f

Jim Becker · Dec 12, 2009

(quoted from post at 10:33:23 12/12/09) Scot, run a wire from the starter terminal of the switch to the coil.

karl f

aybe. Better put a diode in-line in the added wire.

scot in pa · Dec 17, 2009

Can't think of a way to do it without trying to run the starter through the coil wires. I've got the starter with the lever-type switch and the rod hooked to it. The dealer ordered it as a demo and grandma bought it late in its second year, probably just before the 400s hit the showroom.

Owen Aaland · Dec 17, 2009

There are switches available with a side terminal that will replace the switch on the starter for the lever operated switches. For the remote mounted switches you could use a relay to supply the power to the coil while cranking.

Farmalls and block heaters

ryanwheelock

Member

gene bender

Well-known Member

riverbend

Well-known Member

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member

Dave H (MI)

Well-known Member

pete 23

Well-known Member

scot in pa

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karl f

Well-known Member

Jim Becker

Well-known Member

scot in pa

Member

Owen Aaland

Well-known Member

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