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SC rear main and rear axle seals

M

Mark

Well-known Member
Well the snow is blowing, it"s hateful outside and a good time to fix the leaks and squeaks and rattles.

What does it require to replace the rear main seal in a Super C? I"ve got a major leak at the very rear area of the oil pan and while it may just be a pan gasket...I fear the worst.

Do you folks still advocate the use of a pan gasket as opposed to "blue glue" silicone? I"d expect most would prefer a gasket but maybe the silicone works as well....I don"t know and so, I"m asking. I recall yanking the valve covers off a 1979 Olds that I had bought new....and found that they had used a black silicone which worked fine.

I"ve got to replace the belts on my SA and SC and I have never performed this job before either. The fan bearing is shot on the SC as well. How does the fan come off....do I remove the nut behind the fan bearing or just remove the fan mount from the block with fan attached?

Thanks!
 
As far as getting you fan off . . . The nut on the back end should hold in the slot on the back of the casting. To break it loose, look just forward of the casting and you should see a hex surface (looks like a nut) that is actually part of the spindle. You need to get a wrench on to that to loosen it. It's a narrow gap behind the pulley to get to it, so it may take a tppet wrench. If you get lucky, it will be 7/8". Unlucky, it'll be a 13/16".

But that's the party you turn to get it started. As you losen it and the nut on the back end of the outlet bracket is more accessible, turn whichever is handiest.
 
RTV silicone can be used to replace gaskets like you pan gasket but the surfaces must be completely free of oil or it will leak. You are not likely to be able to get the engine clean enough to avoid some leakage with just the silicone.
 
When you split the tractor which you have to do to replace the rear seal assembly which is quite a piece of engineering check the holes in th pan to make sure they havent been over tightened and will have a deformed hole thats recessed. You can use a hammer and get the area around the holes flat again.Using a good fel-pro gasket you should have no leaks.
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Hmmm...sounds like a grand ol" time is about to begin in the shop!

Now menfolks....tell me how I prop the front of the tractor up while enjoying this job? I don"t have exposed rafters to tie a chain hoist to. Looks like I"ll have to borrow an engine hoist. I suppose I can run a bolt into the rear of the engine to attach the hoist chain to. Any better suggestions?
 
Take a good look at the pan next to the gaskit surface. Mine was cracked, didn't a rear main seal.
 
Two bolts in place of a couple of the studs will make for a much better lift.
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