Sleeve Puller for Super A

have you tried knocking them out with a oak block? it is a wet sleeved engine and are not in there real hard, i would give it a try at least. sleeve pullers are expensive and you dont use them very much at least the average person. so if you cant get them out yourself take it to a machine shop or rent a puller pershaps.

Andrew
 
Try the "new" mega auto parts chains like AutoZone/Advance Auto Parts. They rent A LOT of tools for free. I don't know if they would have a sleeve puller, but it is worth the phone call.
 
Sam, where are you located. I have a sleeve puller, and if you are close enough would consider coming to visit to pull them out.

I agree, they are an not in there tight, however, after years of rust in the water jacket, I have yet to be able to drive them out. Doesn't mean I haven't tried, and that you shouldn't try that first. Also, if you are going to have the block boiled, have the machine shop pull them for you.

I am in western Pa, and would consider a day trip anywhere in the Pa, western NY, eastern OH, norhern WV/MD areas.
 
Try using that oak block that Andrew suggested. That's what I used on an A. Hal
PS: You can make one like Keith did for his Super C.
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If you have enought stuff for tools and odds and ends, you can make one yourself. Hal's pic below of Keith's gives you the concept -- basically a brace at the top, a piece on the bottom to draw upwards, and a threaded section between that is used to draw the bottom up against the bracing on top.

I've made one using a couple of scraps of steel bar on top, set just wide enough so that the upper lip of teh sleeve has clearance to come up between them. Bridged that with the center section of a two-jaw puller. All thread down through that and the sleeve. On the bottom I used the center section of another puller, but I wasn't worried about saving the sleeves.

On the one pictured, the piece at the bottom is what some call a puck. It's basically a disc, with the upper edge turned on a lathe to fit the inside of the sleeve, and the wider bottom forming a lip to pull on the bottom edge of teh sleeve. In theory, if it's set up straight, it reduces the possibilty of distorting the sleeve in the process of pulling it.

If you're not aiming to reuse the sleeves, I'd try driving them out first with the wood block and a deadblow hammer. If that doesn't budge them, then rig a puller. Even with the puller, it may be necessary to soak the upper lip of the sleeves with your favorite rust-buster/penetrant and, for especially stubborn sleeves, maybe even apply a little judicious heat to the surface of the head surrounding the lip.
 

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