1952 Cub 12V

kennebunksawmill · Dec 8, 2009

We have a 1952 Cub that is converted to 12V w/ a small alternator. I consistanlty read 13.5V - 14V @ my volt gage (even w/headlights lights on), do I need to add a regulator? My coil says 12V/external regulator...if so, how do I tie it in? Thanks.

Brownie 450 · Dec 8, 2009

Voltage is correct as it is. Does the coil possibly say "external resistor"? If so, you probably should add one.

mkirsch · Dec 8, 2009

13.8-14.5 Volts is correct output for an alternator. It needs to charge the battery, and it can only do that by generating a higher voltage than the battery has. Electricity only flows "downhill" from a higher voltage to a lower voltage.

The coil says "External RESISTOR" for sure. Look for a white porcelain device connected in the wire running from the ignition switch to the + post on the coil. The white device is a resistor. If you find one you are okay. Otherwise you need to get one and add it in the wire between the ignition switch and coil. Most 1960's and early 1970's cars had them, so you should be able to walk up to the counter at NAPA and ask for a "ballast resistor" for an ignition coil off an old muscle car.

John T · Dec 8, 2009

Thats pretty typical of what most alternators produce, I see no alarm.

IFFFFFFF a coil is labeled "12 volts for use with (or requires) external ballast resistor" or something similar IT INDEED NEEDS an external series voltage dropping (12 to 6) ballast resistor to drop voltage and reduce coil current otherwise it can overheat plus the poinst burn up quickly. Its installed in series with the coil AFTER the ign switch but before and ahead of the coil

John T

1952 Cub 12V

kennebunksawmill

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Brownie 450

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mkirsch

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John T

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