Primer and Final Coat Compatability

Going to outsource the sandblasting of my one piece McCormick-Deering 22-36 frame.
I want to have the service shoot primer on it for me.
Then, after I establish my final color, I will brush or roller on the final coat on the cast metal.
What do I need to know about the compatibility of a primer with the chemistry of a final coat?
Also, how much time do I have between primer application and final coating?
 
Tom, the simplest answer is to choose your color coat paint, then match the primer to it. There are 4-5 basic types of color coat formulations, which require different types of base primers.

choose your paint, and tell the sandblast company what you are top coating with. they will match the primer to the paint (if they are reputable, and know what they are doing).
 
Use 2 part epoxy as indicated in the Paint and Bodywork forum. There are virtually no topcoats that are not compatible with it. There is absolutely no better primer. But, be sure what you buy is true epoxy, not what some minor manufacturer claims. PPG or Dupont or Martin Senour. Apply the topcoat within the window -- the spec sheet will be on the companies website, if your supplier does not furnish one. Differs between brands.
 
If not epoxy, then use what the spec sheet for the particular topcoat says. Cheaper paints give instructions on the can. Dupont, PPG, etc use most of that space for safety precautions. Epoxy is the only primer you can be assured that is compatible with most all topcoats. Otherwise there is no assurance that the topcoat won't lift.
 
I suggest that you supply the sandblaster with the primer. Otherwise, he will most likely select something from his paint closet. But assuming that he does order your specified paint, he will certainly mark it up. Moreover, there will be no question as to who owns the leftover paint and you will probably find a use for it later.

Go to an autobody paint jobber and they will recommend a paint system that will meet your needs or requirements. If they don't suggest a catylized epoxy primer as one option, ask them why they passed on that product.

If the clerk doesn't seem knowledgeable, talk to the store manager or owner.
 
Whichever epoxy primer you choose I would use their paint for the finish coats. I would supply the primer as suggested since you should have some left over as long as he doesn't dump
the paint with hardener back in the left over paint. I think its better to spray the primer since it will cover the surface better and get it in the hard to get areas. Hal
 

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