Halogen Lights-Worth the $$$

I am converting the 350 Utility to 12 volts. I need to buy new lights. Should I go with a halogen, or just keep the standard sealed beam 12 volt? I am thinking the halogen would make a HUGE difference. Anyone know if there is a way to make the rear light halogen while keeping the switch for the taillight?
Thanks

I switched out the standard headlamps on an older Ford truck to halogens several years ago. I never could see much difference.

(quoted from post at 09:15:29 12/04/09)
I switched out the standard headlamps on an older Ford truck to halogens several years ago. I never could see much difference.

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I find this hard to believe. You must have had some really poor wiring or other cause of low voltage. Years ago (when we still had round headlamps) I went halogen on my car, and later, on my little Ranger. I was impressed with the difference.

(quoted from post at 10:11:34 12/04/09)

(quoted from post at 09:15:29 12/04/09)
I switched out the standard headlamps on an older Ford truck to halogens several years ago. I never could see much difference.

Click to expand...

I find this hard to believe. You must have had some really poor wiring or other cause of low voltage. Years ago (when we still had round headlamps) I went halogen on my car, and later, on my little Ranger. I was impressed with the difference.

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It was a '71 F-100. Replaced the wiring terminals at the same time because the originals were very corroded.

DOT spec headlights are going to be similar in glare /brightness/pattern.
The halogen will be at the top end of allowable, regular lamps might not.
Putting halogen bulbes in a tractor (if using a relay to assist current loads) can be much brighter than those stock pancakes. Old tractor lights were easy to Recognize as inadequate. JimN

You have a lot more options at 12 Volts. If you stay off-road, NAPA sells a LMP4509 that fits perfectly, fires out 110000 candlepower, draws 100 Watts and costs about $10. Life is pretty short (rated 25 hours in an airplane with all that vibration), but I only use mine during snow storms for plowing and the tractor only sees the highway when I push out and turn around. (1966 140 slightly rusty working tractor).

It pretty much requires an alternator and an upgrade to your lighting wiring. I use modern 15A switches with separate fuses for front and back and 12ga. wires I put in when I did the alternator. You could use relays and keep the rotary, but the resistor wire on Dim would have to go.

The stock bulbs are GE 4411, 18watt and 3000 CP, with a very wide spread and cost less than $5. The air lights have a very narrow spread, but put out enough light it doesn't matter. Plus you can see into the next county.

There is also a GE Q4509, which is a quartz-halogen, 140,000 CP, 100w, 100 hours life, but not available at NAPA. It costs $20 to $30. I have not tried it, but I might if the 4509's start to go.

This is not for everybody, but it works for me since 2004.

(quoted from post at 12:39:05 12/04/09) YNAPA sells a LMP4509 that fits perfectly, fires out 110000 candlepower, draws 100 Watts and costs about $10..

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4509's (and 4537's) are aircraft landing lights, very bright, very short lived and VERY hard on oncoming drivers. If you need to be out in the street plowing or for other reasons, these are not what you want. In addition, I'd question whether the short lifespan is worth the trouble.

I used to run 4537's in my Roadrunners. CHP does not like them at roadside inspections, even though I NEVER got into trouble with careful use

(quoted from post at 17:52:56 12/04/09)

(quoted from post at 12:39:05 12/04/09) YNAPA sells a LMP4509 that fits perfectly, fires out 110000 candlepower, draws 100 Watts and costs about $10..

Click to expand...

4509's (and 4537's) are aircraft landing lights, very bright, very short lived and VERY hard on oncoming drivers. If you need to be out in the street plowing or for other reasons, these are not what you want. In addition, I'd question whether the short lifespan is worth the trouble.

I used to run 4537's in my Roadrunners. CHP does not like them at roadside inspections, even though I NEVER got into trouble with careful use

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I thought I was clear it was for off-highway use only. No oncoming car has ever seen my lights because my tractor has never seen an oncoming car. For me, lifespan is at 5 years and counting. If you run your lights all the time, air lights are a bad idea.

Regular halogens come in 55 and 100 watt, and are generally offered in three beam spreads. If you can provide the amps, they will definitely change your view. To really light up the world, get some HID kits that replace the bulb in a regular housing. They are cheap now, and only draw way about 3 amps each.

I replaced the switch and bulbs (sealed beam) on my Farmall 504. I made mounts and added 55W halogen work lights to my loader frame. I have an alternator and ran them through a relay and use my OEM light switch. I plan to add two more. They will also have a relay ($4 is cheap for quality lighting). I also gutted the wiring harness and built my own outo of quality automotive wire and larger gauge. DC appriciates heavier wire.

CT

my 350U is 12V and I would like to put brighter lights on also, but how big can I go with a generator? thanks jim

I am converting to an alternator (40 amps) and a new harness made to plug right into the alternator( from Brillman). Do you have any idea how much current the harness and original switch can take? I saw some 55w front halogens. Think this will be too much for the stock setup? Can you buy halogen sealed beams that go in the old housings, or do you have to buy a whole new housing? For the rear light I have the old combination light, so I think I have to stay with a traditional bulb.
Thanks

I don't have much to offer on this subject except this.
Halogen lights are great for work lights. They give out a lot of light for working.
More than likely will give out more light for tractor use if you have the current to push them.
I HATE meeting them on oncoming traffic. It hurts my eyes and is very distracting.
Dell

Here's some easy instructions for wiring headlight relays.
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