Farmall Cub Oil ?

What kind of oil do you guys like to run in your late 50s cubs? Thanks, Lou

I run 10 w 30.

I use HD 30 in the summer and HD10 in the winter for mine. you can also use a multi-vis, like 10W30. What is more important is that you keep the oil and filter changed when needed (as indicated by the hours used). Regular oil and filter changes are more important than whether or not you use single or multi grade oil.

also, the brand of oil is less important than using an HD (high detergent) oil.

There are lot's of opinions here on what type and what brand of oil. Can't say that anyone is wrong. From my perspective, it boils down to keep it clean, and personal preference.

I'll close with my brand(s): wolf's head or pennzoil.

as aways, IMHO.

If the cub is new to you, run non-detergent oil in it. If you run detergent oil in a motor that was previously run with non detergent you may run into a problem with clogged oil passages in the block

I will expand on Pat's post a bit. If any engine has accumulated sludge in it, ie. run on non-HD oil, and have long running times between oil changes, the HD oil will start to break down the sludge. Depending upon how much sludge has builtup in the engine, any "chunks" that dislodge could gum up an oil journal or passage.

I use Rislone in any tractor/engine that i first change the oil in. rislone will break down and disolve a good bit of the sludge in an engine. Just substitue 1 quart of rislone for 1 quart of oil in the oil change. i then run the engine up to temp for at least 5-6 hours, and not under heavy load.

Change oil and filter, and use your normal oil.

the other thing that can happen when you "clean out" the sludge in an engine is that the seals may start to leak, and the valve guids may start to seep oil, in turn causing the engine to smoke at idle. In either of these cases, the seal or the guides needed replaced to begin with.......sludge is not the answer to worn guides or seals.

as always, IMHO.

PS, I don't work for Rislone, and i don't own stock in the company. I just have been using it for over 30 years, and have had nothing but good success with it.

Mr. Fleming,
I couldn't agree more on keeping the oil and filter clean.
The only things I would add is that people should 1)remember that higher viscosity is not necessarily better and 2) buy an owners manual.
Over the years, many of the mechanical problems that I've helped people resolve could have been avoided by having (and reading) an owners manual.

Thanks for the tip on Rislone. I seen it but I've never tried it. I will the next time I have a need.

Art

Other good oil additives are seafoam and lucas, I use seafoam to clean and lucas to protect. Lucas just makes the oil cling to friction surfaces better.

It may be benificial to just drop your oil pan and see what you find, thats always fun! hose everything out with carb clean or ... replace pan and start using regular oil

Pull the pan and tappet cover, clean everything up, use Rotella 15w 40. The detergent will SLOWLY clean the engine and the zinc in Rotella is good for the flat tappets. Leave the snake oils on the shelf, change oil when it starts to darken.

Where is the tappet cover? What does it look like? Thanks

The tappet cover is on the side of the block, and retangular with rounded corners. it is down from the head a couple of inches.