water in transmission

I have a customer that owns a 560 Farmall and We are havin alot of trouble with Water getting in the tranny and hyd system was wonderin where it might be getin in It is gettin to be a major issue Hy-tran will turn white in One year and dont matter how much you flush it out, ina year right back in the same boat. It does live outside witch I know is not good but has no other option. Any help would be appericated

Cover it up while it is outside in the rain.
Plastic tarps work well.

Joe check the rubber boots on gear shift levers on transmission we had same problem with our case tractor untill we installed new boots.

I don't know where you live, but if you live in a cold climate like I do (Wisconsin) you will have water problems even if you keep your tractor in the shed all the time. I always have mine in the shed and when there is a fast warm up, especially in the spring, the castings just sweat from condensation. So, I have not figured out a good way to stop this other than keep the tractor in a heated garage, which isn't practical. Roger

Check the gasket under the transmission tower. Make sure the fill plug is tight and the threads on the plug and the transmission are good. Check the breather to see if it is in good working order

I assume that it breathes out around the shifter but if im wrong please let me know

Im sure that is one factor but would it condence so much that in the winter its wet enough that i lose all hyd function their must be over two gallon of water in the system 17 gal of oil

the problem is the pump is sucking air. you need to replace the o ring at the pump suction. if that dont fix it then you need to split the tractor and replace the o ring between diff housing and torgue converter.thats your problem not water.

Why do you say its not water when I get almost two gallon more material out than i put in

I've been having the exact same problem for over 10 years. I had the tractor for about 5 years before it started and it makes no difference if it sets in the shed or outside. The problem has gotten so bad that I have to take the hydralic filter out in the fall because the oil has so much slush in it during the winter that it clogs the filter and starves the pump. I changed the oil 3 times in an effort to get the water out and that also made no difference. The new oil had water in it within a couple of months. Changing the oil was so expensive that I found a way to get the water out of it and reuse it. I drain all the oil into clean barrels and let them set in the shop long enough for the water to settle to the bottom, then in the middle of the winter when the temp is 20 below I can pour the oil off and the water is a frozen chunk at the bottom of the barrel. There is an unbelievable amount of water in the oil sometimes and I find it hard to believe that much water can come from condensation but that's got to be the only source because the tractor sets in the shop 11 months of the year and there is no antifreeze leak. I installed a petcock from an old oil barrel in the drain plug hole so that in the summer after the tractor has set for a couple of weeks or more I can open up the valve and drain a couple of gallons out of the tranny. That way I have been able to get some of the water out that settles to the bottom of the tranny during warm weather. I save the drained oil and in the winter pour the oil off the ice. Until I figure out how to keep the water out that's the best solution I've found.

Had a reply all typed in yesterday, computer shut down for updates and lost it before I could post. At any rate, It seeems very few know that a change was made on the shift lever on these tractors. IH came with a kit with a 0-ring in the little funnel shaped shield on shift lever. It was factory on latest tractors. The original has a slot in shield to breathe past shift lever and is a real easy way for rain or wash water to enter. You need to drill a vent hole in main cover that the shield will protect it but not seal it. The bolts on main cover sitting in the well they are will leak water also, a little silicone under head will cure that. Next, condensation can be huge, just look into the rear under the cover during cold damp weather and it is covered with frost , even on top of the oil itself. Any suction leaks will aerate the oil and even make good oil look yellow and foamy. The suction tube seal on pump intake is critical, it is a lip type seal pressed on the tube and must be spaced exactly the correct distance to seal properly. Pump also has an 0-ring where tube goes into pump. O-ring between two housings can leak also. I would never run without a filter, might revert back to the original screen style if absolubely necessary or find one of the course screened by pass valves on the paper filter. Adding the extended larger filter would no doubt help also. You can never get all the moisture out of good quality hyd fluid by letting it stand as it is formulated to retain some moisture in suspension. When it settles out it is saturated. Would have to be heated to evaporation temp to expel it from the oil. Also when draining, the section under the ta with t shaped cover does not drain, power steering bolster and fast hitch cyl or loader cyl don't drain. Clyinder can be flushed but not real easy. I used to save good looking oil from newer tractors like magnum, run it through filter on recieving barrel and use it to flush out these old tractors as they are really a problem.