Got the 300U last fall and dealt with many issues, such as starter that kept running after the key was returned from start to run, not charging, engine and hydraulic oil leaks, pto seals, just about endless. Used it for keeping the pasture clipped this year, but had one niggling item. Always had a ka-klink noise when running. Didn't matter moving or stopped, clutch in or out, t/a high or low in gear or not. Sort of like a piston pin or rod bearing, but definately from behind the clutch, not the engine. When changing the trans oil, I removed the pto driven gear cover and could see a couple chipped teeth. That had to be it, but didn't feel like doing all the work involved, besides needed it for the grass clipping. So, now it's fall and had some down time to work on it. Already had most of the systems apart before so with a floor jack and engine hoist, splitting went faster then expected. The problem is that the might as wells take over. I was expecting some wear on the pressure plate splines, but they were up 90% gone, so had to order a clutch kit. The disk still had meat on it, but the cushion springs were shot. I could turn the hub almost stop to stop by hand. No wonder it had such an abrubt engagement. Easiest way to get the pilot bearing out was to remove the flywheel. Never had a roller bearing for that before, but only had done two clutches prior to this, 1968 Camaro and 1990 Cavalier. Well since the flywheel was off might as well do the rear seal. But you can't get all the retainer parts off to change their gaskets without dropping the oil pan. Oil pan has about 20 bolt and one stud. Of course the pan wouldn't clear the front axle wishbone without taking the stud out. Might as well look at the oil pump pickup while in there. Yup, it was pretty clogged up. Got all that back together, and still need to pull the clutch housing away from the rear end to take out the chipped gear. PTO input shaft out, that looked good, but might as well change the two seals. That one in the bearing support was at the bottom of a blind hole and was a bear to get out. Cleaned out the crud at the bottom of the t/a well, boy, there must has been a catastrophic failure at one time. Found a clutch finger, parts to a throwout bearing and unidentified strips of metal. There is a large pipe plug to remove for access to the PTO driven shaft. I didn't think I had any tool to remove it, but found a stubby 1 3/8 wrench that fit and it came loose with light hammer taps. Now one retaining ring, push the shaft back, and the gear is finaly out. Not only chips, but two other teeth were cracked. Put everything back with used gear from Mcgrew Equipment, RTV here, gasket or o-ring there, fill with oil and ready to start. Starts on the first try and you know what? No more ka-klink. Maybe now I can think about paint next year.
