H Model Charing trouble

VFMerc

Member
Thanks all;

I confirmed that the tractor is wired correctly and added a wire directly from the grounded (+) post of the battery to the generator and v/r base to ensure a good ground.

I also confirmed that I have hot battery voltage (6.2) to both terminals of the ammeter and the BAT terminal of the V/R. The ammeter swings to the discharge side when lights are turned on.

Based on what I learned from everyone's posting I confirmed the polarization of the generator.

I then started the tractor and took a reading at the "A" terminal of the generator which is wired to the "GEN" terminal on the underside of the regulator. With the tractor running the "A" terminal shows no voltage or a very small -0.13.

Having worked all the way though Bob T's troubleshooing guide I'm guessing that despite having taken the generator in to a repair station at the start of the process the absence of any voltage reading at the generator's "A" terminal means generator is not producing any current?

Before I take the generator off I'll double check the battery and make sure it can accept a charge (plates covered by distilled H2O with no milky appearance).

VFM
 
That dont sound good because even if you put a genny on the bench n spin it with a motor etc with residual magentism in the iron field poles she ought to put voltage out the ARM post with respect to its frame.

Did you run the Motor Test in the Troubleshooting procedure???? Usually if it passes BOTH those checks it ought to charge. NOTE until the gennys ARM post voltage exceeds that of the battery the VR"s internal cutout relay is open so its not yet even coupled up to the battery so it could charge it.

If you temporarily jump the gennys FLD post to ground does she charge then?? If so but NOT otherwise the VR is bad or the wires bad from FLD on genny to FLD on VR. If she still dont charge when running with the gennys FLD grounded you can by pass jump around the cutout relay n see if she charges then BUTTTTTTTT if the gennys ARM post isnt higher voltage then the battery the relays not gonna close and she still cant charge the battery even if it were BY PASSED JUMPED.

To be safe Id polarize the genny once more then try the ground the FLD test and the motor test but if theres never any voltage at the ARM post shes obviously not working BUT YOU ALREADY KNEW THAT

John T
 
something else to check, i had a charging problem with my h, replaced and re-wired everything. genny bench tested fine, motored fine, but when installed on the tractor just would not charge. turns out the insulation around the a terminal on the genny was cracked, and when the wire installed and tightened up, would short out the genny.
 
I had the same issue as noted by glennster on my Super C. My main issue on my generator was it needed a new armeture and during the process of the electrical shop installing a new one it wouldn't work when I put it back on the tractor. I used Bob M's trouble shooting techniques he emailed me and found it was still a generator problem. I took it back to the shop and they quickly found the issue and replaced the termainal and insulator and still working fine several years later. I believe you can damage that post by not holding it in the fixed installed position and if it turns when tightening the stud nut when hooking up the terminal you have a good chance of breaking the insulator between it and the generator case. Hope yours is this easy as well, Hal.
 
(quoted from post at 17:42:25 11/15/09) That dont sound good because even if you put a genny on the bench n spin it with a motor etc with residual magentism in the iron field poles she ought to put voltage out the ARM post with respect to its frame.

Did you run the Motor Test in the Troubleshooting procedure???? Usually if it passes BOTH those checks it ought to charge. NOTE until the gennys ARM post voltage exceeds that of the battery the VR"s internal cutout relay is open so its not yet even coupled up to the battery so it could charge it.

If you temporarily jump the gennys FLD post to ground does she charge then?? If so but NOT otherwise the VR is bad or the wires bad from FLD on genny to FLD on VR. If she still dont charge when running with the gennys FLD grounded you can by pass jump around the cutout relay n see if she charges then BUTTTTTTTT if the gennys ARM post isnt higher voltage then the battery the relays not gonna close and she still cant charge the battery even if it were BY PASSED JUMPED.

To be safe Id polarize the genny once more then try the ground the FLD test and the motor test but if theres never any voltage at the ARM post shes obviously not working BUT YOU ALREADY KNEW THAT

John T

Thanks John. I did jump the genny's field post to a good clean ground first as the troubleshooting instructions recommended. I had to head out before I got to the motor test so I'll repolarize, jump the genny's field post to ground and run the motor test. I'm on the road this week but will follow those steps in order and let you know what I find as soon as I get back. If nothing else I'm beginning to understand charging systems a little. Shoot, until I got your e-mail I thought the "L" was for lights. Now I think I could wire it blindfolded if I had to.
 

Thanks. I'll take a look. I took the generator back to the place that rebuilt it once and they said they ran it and it was putting out voltage so maybe that's it. I'll take the lead off and inspect around the post for cracks.
 

Thanks Hal. That may be it. Seemed when I was going over the generator the first time I had reinstalled it and found no charge. The shop had placed the V/R on and wired it and I didn't check that terminal. I thought I had simply failed to check and tighten the nut. I didn't remove or inspect the wires. If the insulation was cracked I would not have seen it. I'll take a look and then run the motor test. I sounds similar to your situation in that I took it back to the shop and they said it was putting out voltage but I'm not seeing it.

I'll give it a try.
 

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