help needed with 560 injection pump

The injection pump on my 560 has given up the ghost. I have found a n.o.s. stanadyne for a very reasonable price but need to know where I can find info on if it will fit on my 560 or not? The number on the pump I found is dgfcl635-7aq. If anyone can help and tell me whether this would work or not or know of someone I can contact to see I would greatly appreciate it. I don"t wanna commit to something that will do me no good.

Why don't you just fix the original pump? If it's not siezed, you can probably fix it for less then $50 in parts.

As far as I know, IH 560 tractors only used injection pumps with pumps that measured .31" diameter. That pump you're looking at is a lot bigger with a .35" plungers. It would overfuel the 560 unless it got recalibrated.

The "dgfc1635" stands for:
D = die cast aluminum housing
G - indicates centrifugal governor
F - indicates flange type mounting
C - indicates clockwise rotation
6 - stands for six cylinder engine application
35 - stands for pump plungers are .35" diameter


560s usually have the following Roosamaster/Stanadyne pumps:

DBGFC631 1AE, DBGFC631 26AE, DBGFC631 49AE, DBGFC 631 101AE.

Thanks, thats just the kind of info I was looking for. The one I have a lead on is one that someone else is looking at buying as well and the seller needs a response asap. I needed to get my ducks in a row and know what the best route to take would be before I buy. I don't have the old one off yet or know what is wrong with it and the price on the N.O.S one is much, much lower than I've seen rebuilt ones sell for.

Keep in mind that those pumps rarely get "rebuilt." It's not cost-effective. Pumps sold as "rebuilt" for $600 - $800 usually have around $40 worth of new parts put into them. Most major metal parts get reused, as is.

When an engine gets rebuilt, all wear items get replaced or renewed in some way. That doe NOT happen with an injection pump.

The vast majority of D series pumps die because of a few plastic and rubber parts that fail. Takes one hour to take a pump all apart, renew all the seals and minor metal parts and put back together.

When a pump actually needs major parts to work again, it usually gets scrapped and used for parts.
Read the small print that pertains to "core value" and most sellers will NOT give you core-credit if a pump is siezed or turns hard.

As to the pump you're looking at. It's possible that somebody already custom-calibrated it for a 560 - but you'd have to ask, and I doubt it.

Going by the model number you gave, it looks like it would bolt on your tractor. Just have too much fuel delivery unless it's been modified.

jdemaris- Is there a "kit" available, and where would I find it? I would like to go through my pump this winter, and am interested in trying it myself. Thanks for your help.

US Diesel in Texas. They sell and ship to anybody. 800-328-0037. I've been using Spaco parts for years. Seem just as good as Stanadyne and cost half the price. Both Spaco and most of OEM Stanadyne parts come from Italy and US Diesel sells both.

Last time I bought parts (about 6 months ago), this was the cost. Note that not all IH tractors use the pilot tube mentioned here. It is a brass bushing in the front of the pump where the driveshaft seals ride. Some IH tractor have special adapters in front and don't use that "pilot tube" bushing.

DB complete seal kit - Stanadyne # 24371 - Spaco U24371 $12.10

DB pilot tube - Stanadyne # 16320 - Spaco U16320 $4.83

That's a big help- I'll give them a call. Thanks!

Thanks again, I assume that those part numbers are the correct and should be mostly what I might need for my 560? I understand it would need to be tore apart and looked at to see what parts are wore and need replacing. Those numbers you listed are just the most common items? Secondly I know that most injection systems require a super clean environment to be worked on. Is this the case here or is it something I can accomplish just on my workbench without the benefit of a clean room environment?

When I was a dealer mechanic, I fixed many out in the field from the back of a service truck. Never had one fail because of dirt, and I'm kind not the neatest person in the world.

Parts are a very close fit so you don't want dirt in there. A super clean area is not necessary however. You need to use a bit of care. I had to fix many when all I had was some gas or diesel fuel, rags, and some compressed air and all went fine.

The most important metal parts fit with such close tolerances that you can't check for wear with a micrometer. You just eyeball them and look for wear patterns. When a part is worn, it's easily seen.

The majority of the time, even failed pumps need very few parts. When I say "failed" I mean an engine that quits and NOT a pump that seizes.
With most, a $15 seal kit and new $8 front bushing is all that's needed. For the full deal (what is often called a "rebuild"), you add a new metering valve ($12), fuel pump blades and liner ($18), and maybe a delivery valve ($12). Very rarely do you find anything else that needs replacing.

If a pump has gotten water in it, or perhaps damage from running waste vegetable oil or thin fuel of some sort, the head & rotor assembly can get worn. For that there is no fix other then a new head & rotor. Didn't used to be worth it when Stanadyne charged as much for it as new pump. But now there are aftermarket head & rotor assemblies that cost around $200.

A worn head & rotor results in a seized pump, or an engine that starts well cold but will not start hot. The latter is very common with military Humvees in Irag that get run in high heat and on thin fuel. Humvees use the same basic Stanadyne pump design that your IH uses.