Broken Hydraulic Line (Sorry if this is a double post)

I was doing some "aggressive" plowing with the 1066 dragging my tandem to thwart the spread of a grass fire onto my place. I was on my third pass when the "66 lunged forward. As I hit the clutch and brakes, hydraulic fluid splattered the back of the cab. The old nylon flex lines seperated and tore loose when the hitch pin dropped, but the force cracked the weld on the hard line going into the splitter box. We tried brazing it, but it"s leaking again.

Is there a way to repair it without replacing the box and two lines connecting under the seat? I hate to have flex lines running all over with Y"s and such, but the replacement lines and box are very pricey. Can the block be tapped and the lines be flared or compression jointed? Thanks for the help.

Pete

BTW; The fire got within 100 feet of my place, but was stopped. Very interesting experience that I don"t need to repeat.
 
Gap Tractor is right dowm the road, but if I recall, they wanted over $300 For a used assembly. New ones are in the $500 range. My experience on used parts is that they are used "up" and I end up spending almost as much getting the used one to work. Are threaded brazed fittings available? Or maybe I could have the old stems pulled out and just shorten the lines by 1/2 an inch. Looking for any viable solutions at this point.
 
Can you post a picture of that block? If you were to use a tap drill & tap you would need to clean out all metal chips so they don't get into your hydraulic system. Any hydraulic shop can make you new hoses and JIC fittings are available
in most sizes. I made this hose with reusable swivel nuts for my hydraulic lift with JIC tube fittings. You can get hoses made with double wire braided constuction where you have extra high hydraulic pressure. Hal
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Connecting is my problem. I have hard steel lines coming into the block, then going out along the sides of the tractor for hardlined front remotes. From 900 miles away, I recall that the box is about 2 inches deep, 3 wide and not quite 4 inches tall. I am now looking at removing the box, if it has no real function except splitting, and use 37 deg flare or compression fittings into a "t".
 
Hope to have solved my problem. Ordered 5/8 compression and flare fittings and will cut the block off and tee into front and rear remotes. Since my place is in the sticks, I buy extras and hope for the best. I plan on trying the compression fittings first and have the flare fittings as a back-up.
 

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