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Front wheel bearing race question

M

Mike CA

Well-known Member
I took off the adjustable front wheels on my '44 H, and I'm going to replace them with clamp style wheels. I knocked the races out of the clamp wheels. And it was just the races. I took one of the hubs off a '39 H, so I know what it looked like when it came out.
When I took the adjustable hubs off, there was an extra... guide? Not sure what to call it. There is one on each side, right behind the race. These fit right over the spindle. They are not part of the bearing kits I purchased, so I don't know what, or why. Are they just for an adjustable hub, and won't fit in the clamp style hub? I would assume since the spindle is the same, they would fit.

Should I knock these "cups" out, and put them in my clamp wheels?


Here is the adjustable style hub. You can see the extra retrainer cup inside the race.

dsc0161o.jpg



Here is the older clamp style hub. The races have been knocked out. (I haven't cleaned all the sand out yet... I'm getting to that)

dsc0162p.jpg



And here is a picture of a bearing kit for one of the hubs. That retainer cup is not part of it.

49de13f887ec4_51089b.jpg
 
Looking at the Parts diagram and list, there is nothing in the pics like that. I would assemble the red wheel as you found it. Just using the parts in your pic. Wheel bearing grease, or Ford specification graphite chassis grease, or Mobil1 synthetis chassis grease are preferred. Must say EP on the container if grease gun grease. JimN
 
Yes, those are original parts, and if possible, you should re- use
them. They are basically a grease retainer that keeps your bearing
grease near the bearings, rather than going into the center of the
hub, like the place all your sand is found. They are available for
your hubs through IH, and you would have to order them
separately. There should be two of them, one for each bearing and
race combo.
 
i would say those are to keep the grease with the brg. that way it always is running in the grease. without them the grease eventually works its way to the middle of spindle with the centrifugal action. if its not too much to get them out may as well use them.
 
BEcause the front wheels are at an angle, I mean the top is out quite a bit further than the bottom, they put those retainers in there to keep the grease from running down hill or to the outside. Use them. Just my two cents worth Bernie Steffen
 
...They are available for your hubs through IH, and you would have to order them separately. There should be two of them, one for each bearing and race combo.
Click to expand...
Yeah, looks like I'm gonna have to order them. They are real thin metal, and I bent one trying to tap it out. I'll see if I can get the others out better, but it's good to know I can order them. I'll do that tomorrow morning.

After looking them up, I realize what they were (I didn't understand what they were the first time I saw them. The reason the '39 didn't have them was because they were only available for ser no's 123110 and up.

Part numbers: 60288DA, 60289D

Thanks for the heads up guys!
 
You should never have any more bearing problems on your tractor since it won't be used in dusty soil. Hal
 
Well, I wouldn't say never. Fairs, shows, and what have you will have it going through dirt and dust. But since it won't be farming, I don't expect any problems since the insides will be all new.
 
I have never put those back in and I have rebuilt quite a few of them and never had any problems. As others said, they are to retain the grease in the bearing, but with today's modern wheel bearing grease the grease stays in the bearings. These wheels turn so slow even in road gear that grease is not going to get spun out of the bearings. Automobiles and trailers of recent times do not have these and they are spinning at much higher rpm and under hotter conditions with no problems. Roger
 
I'll see how much they are to replace. If it's more than a few bucks per piece, I may pass.
 
$17 and $11. With tax, it's about $60 for all 4 parts.

I think I'll try to coax the old ones out and fix the one I bent. And if I can't get them to work, I'll go without. $60 is robbery.
 
If you pack the bearing, and the space between with the air space remaining in the hub at 40% or so, you will not need the parts at all. The lubes I mentioned in the post below will stay in and on the rollers fro the remaining life of the tractor unless you park it under water deep enough to get in the bearings (for a week). Go for it. JimN
 
simple fix to grease staying in bearings,and keeping dirt,water ,etc.out, is to install a grease fitting into bearing cap when bearings and seals are replaced, pack bearings as normal,after reinstalling hub cap slowly fill hub until grease starts coming out of the seal, hub is full,no place for contaminates, a few shots of grease from time to time keeps bearings purged they last a lot longer ,you don't have to worry about forcing seals out with the grease because most tractor front wheel seals are designed so lips will face outward when hub is installed.
 
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