What kind of wire wheel do you use?

Mike CA

Well-known Member
I have a brass wheel right now, because I was told it's best on metal. Tonight I was attacking a heavily painted, rusted part, and it seemed to have trouble.

I'm going to buy some new wheels, probably tomorrow, and I was wondering who believes what type of wheel works best on rusty metal?
 
Mike, I actually use 3 different types. I have a twist wire wheel, that is very coarse, and I use that for steel/cast iron parts to take off heavy rust. I have a regular FINE steel wire wheel that I follow up with to smooth things out. I then have a brass wheel for very fine, delicate work.


Use the right tool for the right job.

:D
 
Whatever you choose to use, make sure it isn't made in China !! Those puppies throw their wires like an angry porcupine. Brass will come off on the piece you're cleaning BTW. CC
 
If on a 10,000 RPM 4-1/2 angle grinder then only the good twisted wire wheels, If on a 1000 rpm 3/8 drill motor the whatever. WEAR EYE PROTECTION with whatever you using. bjr
 
I agree with Tom, but HP of the electric motor driving the wheel
is important too. I have a 1/3 HP grinder for the small items
with a fine wire wheel, a 1/2 HP motor dedicated to a medium
wire wheel that I made with an arbor adaptor from a hardware
store, and a 1 HP grinder with the coarse wheel.

This combination and electrolysis; there isn't anything I can't
clean down to the parent material. As always, wear eye
protection and buy American.
 
Protecting your lungs is also worth mentioning. The rust and paint that is scaled off is loaded with toxic stuff. Safety glasses and a good mask is a must.
 
Stay away from sheet metal. On cast you can use any type of wire wheel, but brass won't do much. You cannot hurt cast. I use an angle grinder, but use an electric drill also, because of the variety of wire products available. The twisted wire mentioned is best on an angle grinder. I wear normal glasses that I use for close work. Do not try it without some sort of eye protection. Small parts are best done on a bench grinder with a wire wheel, provided they will "fit" I do all rods, etc that way.
 

The wire wheels are okay for a lot of things, but you need to get one of those 4" scuff wheels for your angle grinder if doing any sizable area. It kinda looks like a sponge, but it is hard. They are more spendy, but take off old paint a lot better, and can leave a surface good enough for painting. They are very good at fixing the "paint over paint over old chipped paint" problem and will take paint down to bare metal. You must be careful not to abuse them as they wear away fairly quickly if you concentrate pressure too much or run across sharp edges with the spin the wrong way. They cost more but last better than sanding disks and you don't have to swap grits.
 
Electrolysis, twisted wire then straight wire, both cupped on a 4" grinder. With electrolysis and young children be VERY careful. Not necessarily toxic but drowning hazard. And do it outside! Works great the bigger the tub the bigger parts you can do. I did the rear assemblies and torque tube on my Super A.
 
Mike, Others mentioned safety equipment and I also want to pass on a story about a friend of mine and what happened to him when using a wire wheel. He had on safety glasses, heavy glooves, mask, etc, but had on a short sleave or light weight shirt. A couple days later he saw this red spot on his arm that was sore to the touch. He went to the doctor and after an x-ray they found a wire from his wire wheel under his skin. They had to operate to remove it. After they I treat those wire wheels with more respect. Roger
 
I agree with GA Dave. The flap disks are definately a must-have in the rust/paint removal aresenal. They do a fine job.
 

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