Farmall A Engine Block

Don Yoder

New User
I have taken my Engine completely apart down to just the short block. It has a Water freeze crack on the exterior of the block about 4 inches in length. I have had machine shops tell me they can pin the crack test to assure it hold pressure. It also has a crack about 3 and half inches between two of the water holes on the top of the block beside the number 2 sleeve. Has an one had any experience with crack pining and it"s results ? Should I be looking for a short block replacement? The Sleeves look good considering having them honed and re surfacing the crank, checking the cam, and rebuilding.

One Machinist didn"t recommend the pinning and felt strongly about finding a short block.

Any thoughts? Any knowledge of available short blocks ?
 
Someone on here may have a good used block since some of them have part tractors. You can call this number and ask for tractor parts. They have some used parts. Was there any antifreeze
in the engine oil pan? Hal


1-800-732-0017
 
You can fix that block if you want to spend the money. I would just get another block unless you have to keep it original. So what do you want to do?
 
No water was in the Oil Pan - Had No water what so ever in the block, only lots of rust and rusty chips keep falling out
 
(quoted from post at 14:48:09 11/10/09) No water was in the Oil Pan - Had No water what so ever in the block, only lots of rust and rusty chips keep falling out
Buy the good used block anyway.
mike
 
At the risk of having the crowd come thundering down on me........
Last summer my Super A started getting water in the oilpan. I prayed it was only a head gasket, but found that my block was cracked on three cylinders between the sleeve and the water hole. It was time for a new block. I was trying to figure where I"d find a block and how I"d get it with no money in the tractor budget when a friend showed up and suggested a jackleg repair.
What I did was take a dremel tool (sidegrinder would"ve worked) and cut a V-notch into the length of the cracks, then filled them with JB Weld. I know, I know... I filed and sanded the cured epoxy off flush with the top of the block and reinstalled the head with a new
gasket. So far, I"ve had no more water in the pan.
I made the repair in July and mowed pastures with it the rest of the summer. Just used the tractor yesterday spreading some gravel on my road. I don"t know how long it will last, but this repair (patch?) might get you through until you can get a block.
 
I had a Farmall A with about a 3"X10" piece behind the carb that had been frozen and the piece was just a hanging there. I took it to the best welder in the county, and he said clean it all up good with a wire wheel then clean it with a solvent I used lacquer thinner, both the piece, and the block
and then glue it back in with JB weld which I did.
That was over 5 yrs ago and the piece is still going strong. The metal in that area was only about an eighth of an inch thick. He said that method had been used on a stationary sawmill engine over 15 yrs ago and it was still going.
This A block had a thermosiphon cooling system so it didn't have a pressure cap on it.
 
If a replacement block is cheap and checks out okay, buy it.

I have had good luck having a cracked block on a Super C spray welded for $12 per inch. It had to be welded on the deck and down on the webs below the deck. The big crack behind the carb was brazed up. The whole job cost me $288.

Greg
 

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