Could anyone tell me what is involved in changing over to a regular voltage regulator on a 1946 farmall H

The obvious of course, and then you need to do some re-wiring. The proper diagram will be on BobMs site. It really is not difficult, but will take a little time.

I would get the Delco Remy # from the generator so you can get the correct regulator. The regulator should be marked on the bottom whether it is for positive or neg ground. You can get them from www.nnalert.com

If you want to replace an old Cutout Relay system that used an LHBD light switch to control the Gennys Field current with a full fledged Voltage Regulator.......

1) Install a 3 (could use 4 actually) Terminal Voltage Regulator thats compatible with your ground and voltage (6 or 12) of course. If youre at Pos ground as original make sure the new VR is suitable EITHER for Pos Ground or Pos or Neg. If youre at Neg ground, make sure the VR is suitable for Neg or Pos or Neg....

2) Insure the new VR has a good case frame ground, often via its physical mount to a good grounded genny, although it could get a ground mounted elsewhere BUT IT NEEDS TO BE GROUNDED

3) REMOVE the wire from the Gennys FLD post that wired up to the LHBD light switch. IT IS NO LONGER USED although the LHBD can still be used as a light switch (just ignore and dont use the LH charge settings, i.e. turns on lights ONLY.

4) Wire:

BAT on VR up to Load (NOT battery/starter) side of the ammeter. That can be the same wire that used to wire to BAT on the old Cutout Relay i.e. instead of it wiring to BAT on the relay it now wires to BAT on the new VR

ARM/GEN on VR wires to gennys ARM post just as the ARM/GEN side of the old relay wired to the gennys ARM post.

FLD on VR now wires to gennys FLD post. Remember, you no longer use a wire from FLD on genny up to light switch!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

5) If you have a 3 brush adjustable genny, Id adjust the third brush up to max charge meaning the 3 rd moveable brush is set as close to the fixed brush beside it SUBJECT TO the permissible closeness of the gennys specs which may be like 1.5 to 3.5 (depends on the genny and even if it has an adjustable 3rd brush) commutator bars mminimum between the 2 brushes. It will probably work if you dont mess with that at all but I had to throw this in

6) I would Polarize the genny just to be safe BEFORE you start the tractor.

NOTE in order that the ammeter or coil (unless its a magneto) wiring dont need changed I would stay at the original POS ground. I take it youre NOT changing voltage right??? IF SO LET ME KNOW AS THERES MORE TO DO

If I missed anything hopefully the other fine gents here can add to this....REMEMBER this is for a genny system and DOES NOT involve any 6 to 12 conversions or ground swaps (+ to -) etc but if it does LET ME KNOW

Ol John T in Indiana

Pretty straightforward…

Mount the regulator so it is SOLIDLY grounded. Mounting it atop the generator like the original cutout is fine. Other good spots are on the backside of the ammeter box, on the steering wheel stantion, etc.

Then wire it per the diagram. Note the field resistor terminal on the light switch will now have nothing connected to it. Also the L and D switch positions no longer control the charge rate since the generator is now 100% controlled by the VR. Rather L and H become two alternate "off" positions for the lights.

Thanks guys .I think I can follow this .You guys are great.Keith

Here's my diagram in the event you change the switch assembly;

http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=farmall&th=693016

You can use the original 4 position switch but will need to take a couple of resistors out of the equation.