Tight C

I bought a 49 C last spring. I was told that the engine was rebuilt a couple of years ago and has been run very little since. I believe it has been rebuilt because it is spotless and no oil leaking around gaskets etc. The problem is that it seems very tight. Even with a brand new battery it turns over slow. Once it does get running it runs very well. When I shut it off it stops very fast.

My question is, what are some things I could look at maybe being the problem. Would putting synthetic oil in it help? I am trying to avoid tearing the engine down if possible.

I'd sooner suspect poor battery connections or small cables. With everything clean, shiny and bright (don't forget the chassis ground), 6v will turn even a new tight motor quite nicely. Automotive type 4 ga cables are too small, though for 6v. They need to be 2 ga at minimum, though 1/0 is about primo.

If you prefer synthetic oil, it will be fine, but I'd hold off on it and use good old dino oil until you've got the motor broken in, maybe 50 hours or better. The newer car engines that don't require a break-in period can run synthetic from the git-go, but my understanding is that the synthetics actually hinder the seating of new rings and so on in motors that need a break-in.

Have you really "worked" this engine to break it in? In other words, have you plowed with this tractor for at least 4 hours at once to seat everything in? We had a 366 Chevy in a grain truck once that was tight after rebuild. Cousin asked me to personally run it back and forth to elevator first bean day of harvest to break it in. He knew I would not over-rev it. First trip back empty 50 MPH was about all it wanted to do, 2nd trip back 55 MPH, by third trip 65 MPH plus with extra HP to spare.

Get the starter serviced and new cables. I rebuild engines for the C and Bs as they are the same but having a good starter is important. Good 6v system will turn them over fine if the starting system is in the same shape as the new engine. You can get 1ga cables and ground the system to the starter. Original that tractor was grounded to the battery case and over the yrs case got rusty therefore making poor ground.

If you're still using the 6 volt battery I would install 00 battery cables. Make sure all connections are clean, shiny & tight. That includes where the battery is grounded. Hal

I would have soldered battery lugs too. Hal

Thanks for the reply. No, I don't think the tractor has done much of anything since rebuild. I am worried also that the rings have not sealed because she smokes a little off and on.
Would an improper carb for the tractor make it smoke?

Thanks for the input. I believe the cables are quite small. I am going to get some heavier ones at TSC today.

If you think TSC cables are heavier, then you've got REALLY light cables... Probably 6ga or even lighter.

TSC's heaviest cable is 2ga. You want at LEAST 0ga. You can try an auto parts store but you really need to go to a truck shop or welding supply.

Hugh MacKay couldn't have said it any better. Heavy cables and clean ground to the frame.

Thanks, I won't waste my time going to TSC.

Depends on the color of the smoke. Black smoke would be fuel. Blue is oil.

It's altogether possible the rings haven't seated yet and, depending on how the tractor was kept after the rebuild, they could be stuck, either from gummed up oil from sitting or even light rust.

If the smoke is bluish and persists after another ten hours or so of warm running, you might want to try one dose of an additive like Seafoam, 1/2 can in the crankcase oil and the rest in the fuel tank, to free them up and give them a chance to seat. If the smoke clears up beforehand, I wouldn't bother with the additives. If you do use one, change it out after another ten hours or so and go back to straight oil.

One other thought. If the smoke is oil, and is more pronounced for the first few minutes after startup, it could be worn valve stem guides, often overlooked on rebuilds. If that is the case, and the smoke clears up as the head warms up, the problem isn't too sever and could be fixed with a set of valve stem seals. They weren't originally put in the motor, but they're commonly included in a lot of gasket and seal kits anymore, and are readily available otherwise.

Still, if it were mine, I wouldn't pursue that until the motor has been given a chance to break in.

You can call this number to see if they have 00 battery cables that would fit your tractor. You would need to measure your battery cables and I wouldn't have them any longer than necessary. Used welding cable will make fine battery cables. You would just need to solder the lugs on the cable. Hal

1-888-810-9220