matt from wi
Member
I recently installed a 10si alternator on my H. I have the 3 wire set up with a diode. I followed Bob M wiring diagram. When charging the ammeter needle bounces hard. Any thoughts on what might be causing this? Thanks Matt
- Thread starter matt from wi
- Start date
Janicholson
Well-known Member
The three most likely causes are:
1} A connection in the system that is intermittent. This includes both control wires from the exciter supply through diode, and the #2 terminal sensor wire. The heavy current carrying wire, and the amp meter and connection to the starter supply terminal are also involved. A failing amp meter can also do it. Sometimes wiggling connections will work to find it, sometimes it just must be taken one connection at a time.
2} The alternator can have an intermittent connection in it (either regulator, or stator/diode pack)
3} The brushes in the alternator slip rings can be hanging up and or worn out. Common with used alts.
It should be rock steady.
JimN
1} A connection in the system that is intermittent. This includes both control wires from the exciter supply through diode, and the #2 terminal sensor wire. The heavy current carrying wire, and the amp meter and connection to the starter supply terminal are also involved. A failing amp meter can also do it. Sometimes wiggling connections will work to find it, sometimes it just must be taken one connection at a time.
2} The alternator can have an intermittent connection in it (either regulator, or stator/diode pack)
3} The brushes in the alternator slip rings can be hanging up and or worn out. Common with used alts.
It should be rock steady.
JimN
Owen Aaland
Well-known Member
The things that JimN suggested may take care of the problem or the bouncing needle may also be normal for your setup. The original ammeters were only 20 amp gauges. The alternator you installed is probably in the neighborhood of 60 to 75 amps. The regulator in the alternator does not hold a steady voltage but rather is always changing the field current from too high a voltage to too low and then back to too high. It keeps repeating this cycle. This slight variation in voltage causes the amperage output to be constantly changing. It may only vary an amp or two but it happens rapidly. The higher amperage output of the alternator and lower the capacity of the ammeter the more likely you are to see the needle movement.
Putting a capacitor across the terminals of the ammeter would serve as a dampener and should eliminate the bouncing needle. I don't know enough about electricity to know was size capacitor to suggest.
Putting a capacitor across the terminals of the ammeter would serve as a dampener and should eliminate the bouncing needle. I don't know enough about electricity to know was size capacitor to suggest.
John G. Hasler
Member
> Putting a capacitor across the terminals of the > ammeter would serve as a dampener and should
> eliminate the bouncing needle.
That would require an extremely large capacitor as the resistance of the meter is very small. A more useful place to put one would be in parallel with the field.
> eliminate the bouncing needle.
That would require an extremely large capacitor as the resistance of the meter is very small. A more useful place to put one would be in parallel with the field.
Shawn in PA
Member
Does it bounce at idle or WOT? I had a similar problem on my super m. I changed the ammeter out. There was a big difference in needle play between the old one and the new one. I could shake the old one (off the tractor) and bounce the needle all over the place. When I shook the new one it never moved. If anything yours should be pegged on the positive side, then return to 0 or just above upon the battery reaching full charge. It really should'nt bounce regardless of the alternator. I'd swap out your meter after checking all connections as Jim said.
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