Help, my 53 SA is giving me fits. When it got hard starting last winter I bought new plugs, solid wires, copper contact cap and a points,condensor and rotor and replaced the old ones. 2 of the plugs had the electrodes almost gone so I felt good about tuning it up. Well it sounds bad because of intermittent missing. It starts good but does not run smooth all the time. So I readjusted the points, changed the condensor back and forth, and everytime I was in there the miss seemed different. So I pulled the Carter carb off and pulled the the jets and cleaned it and no change. The carb wasn't that bad. I was going to try the timing but can't seem to loosen the bolt next to the block that would allow me to rotate the distributor. Also sprayed ether around the manifold while it was running with no change. Any ideas? Snow is coming and she gets a workout...Thanks....Fred
- Thread starter fredmich
- Start date
Our Phone System is Down!
Please use the Contact us Form
We are working to resolve the issue ASAP! Thanks for your patience!
ScottyHOMeY
Well-known Member
Is that bolt stuck or you just can't get at it? I've had one where it was a combination of the two problems. A regular combination wrench was too long to get onto the bolt, and the bolt was stuck enough that a stubby wrench that I could get onto it didn't give enough leverage to break it loose.
Two options come right to mind. A crowfoot on a breaker bar or ratchet should get in there okay and give you the leverage you need. That or the knucklebuster arrangement of a stubby with a larger wrench wedged into the other end for leverage.
Two options come right to mind. A crowfoot on a breaker bar or ratchet should get in there okay and give you the leverage you need. That or the knucklebuster arrangement of a stubby with a larger wrench wedged into the other end for leverage.
It's the combination of both. I had 2 of the old curved distributor wrenches but they are 9/16 and the bolt is a 1/2. The hydraulic lines are in the way and I hate breaking that joint. Everything is fighting me on this. It's not consistent on the missing and it always purred before. So something I have done is causing it. Could I have bad points? It was a tune up kit from Tisco that I used. Thanks for the response...Fred
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
Why don't you check the valves. Maybe one is hanging up a little and needs a little attention to free it up.
ScottyHOMeY
Well-known Member
Shaggy's ideas about the valves is good. You could run them for clearance at the top, but a compression check might also be worth the mininal effort that takes. Check them all but the two where the electrodes were burned up would be suspect.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
Are you getting enough fuel flowing to the carb? My B had fuzz on the screen that is in the elbow for the fuel line. It ran great until you loaded it or wound it up.
Janicholson
Well-known Member
An old set of points worn to >.025"gap can run OK but look bad.
When replaced, the new points gapped to .020" run rough. This may be because of a worn distributor shaft bushing that allows the timing to go berserk. If play can be felt in the shaft from moving it in all directions (except in and out) it needs bushings, and maybe a shaft. The play should be less than .001 measured with a dial indicator. Centrifugal advance weights and springs can also be an issue. If weak or broken, advance stays in the high speed range at idle. Good luck, let us know what you find. JimN
When replaced, the new points gapped to .020" run rough. This may be because of a worn distributor shaft bushing that allows the timing to go berserk. If play can be felt in the shaft from moving it in all directions (except in and out) it needs bushings, and maybe a shaft. The play should be less than .001 measured with a dial indicator. Centrifugal advance weights and springs can also be an issue. If weak or broken, advance stays in the high speed range at idle. Good luck, let us know what you find. JimN
It was hard to start but it ran smooth after it started?
If it ran smooth before I wouldn't change the timing yet.
If it ran smooth before adding parts then start isolating the part that is bad or intermittent.
Sounds to me like, a bad plug or gap, bad wire, cracked cap, or points or wire not secure.
Dell
If it ran smooth before I wouldn't change the timing yet.
If it ran smooth before adding parts then start isolating the part that is bad or intermittent.
Sounds to me like, a bad plug or gap, bad wire, cracked cap, or points or wire not secure.
Dell
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
how about the coil?
Similar threads
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.
Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.
Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy