Farmall M tech questions

cessnapilot3

New User
Gents,
Putting the engine back on my M, have a few tech questions I can't find answers to in the Blue ribbon:

What should the torque be on the engine mount bolts, front bolster bolts andEngine to bellhousing bolts?......I know they hold the tractor together, but I dont want to break em off


What form of gasket sealer would you use on the water jacket covers...ie silicone or high tack?

Is there a torque value on the front wheels, or do you just beth them snug to the bearings and pin them?

Lastly, the fly wheel has 5 bolts (small ones) that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel, are these bolts supposed to have a certain torque value....or just snug?

Oh, one more question....does the tractor have to be split to change out the clutch....mine could probly use replacement, but I think its still got some decent life to it...If I can do it without splitting the tractor I'd prefer to do it later


he tractor is a '48 Farmall M..Thanks for your input!
Brian
 

Some answers
#2 Permatex is my preference. It is appropriate for the water, and remains flexible over time.

Wheel bearings are tightened till there is modestly noticeable drag beyond the seal friction, then backed off to a tiny amount of drag. (wheel will make 3 revolutions when spun)

Flywheel
Should have 6 bolts!!! use torque specs for grade 5 - 5/16" bolts (I think they are that size)

Does the tractor have to be split? No it can be done with the belly pump removed (the Flywheel will not come out, so surfacing that is not possible in place.
JimN
 
Ya don't gotta split it, but in that case you will need a pressure washer. It can be ugly.

FYI, IH doesn't give a lot of bolts specs in the repair manuals. They used a lot of common bolt sizes in a lot of places and have general specs written up in a bolt manual somewhere. (Which I don't have) Unusual specs show up in the repair manuals and they also often give the major bolts, depending on the machine. As Jim says, generally use a grade 5 spec for the unknowns and things will work out.
 
if the engine is out, i'd replace the clutch now, and have the flywheel resurfaced at this time. the clutch can be changed without splitting, but the flywheel will not come out without splitting. i got the whole new clutch with throwout bearing and pilot bearing from mike at steel wheel ranch for about 200 dollars, had it in a couple days.
 

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