Here's a pic of the internals. The black arrow points to the shaft that extends out the front of the pump, where the keyed-gear to it's right goes. I have everything laid out, but I knew from where they came, as it's important to have everything go back in in the same place and position and direction as where it came out.
The white arrow labeled '2' points to where my O-ring sat in the bore, and the white arrow labeled '1' points to where the shaft may have a groove worn into it from the O-ring. If that shaft requires a speedi-sleeve, then the body may need machining, as the speedi-sleeve will decrease the clearance for the O-ring, as CNKS said.
All that said, some newer pumps had the O-ring replaced by a seal. I wonder if in the case of a seal, it could be relocated slightly, to both avoid that groove and re-machining. Somebody else may know.
But there were apparently several refinements over the years, and I believe a couple of different manufacturers. My kit was VERY specific for the type of pump to which it applied. The long pump number was stamped on the side of my pump, but it was both small, and shallow, and I couldn't see it until I went scraping at the paint. Moreover, the repair kit wasn't well identified on the outside, and it wasn't until the parts-guy opened and looked at the pump-numbers to which that kit applied, on the paperwork on the inside, that we were sure we had the right match. Maybe we were both being more careful than we needed, but be fore-warned.
One last thing- there are four bolts that hold the pump, but only two of them extend beyond the pump and into the block. The other two are shorter, and only serve to hold the two parts of the pump body together. If you pull them all, be careful the two halves of the pump body don't come apart before you're ready, and things fall out of the internals before you see how they're oriented.
