Clutch on Farmall M

I have a 1943 Farmall M.My problem is disengaging the clutch without grinding the gears.I have a rebuilt clutch,resurfaced pressure plate,new throw out bearings,and any thing else that we thought was wore enough to make the difference,with no luck.You can crank the tractor with clutch disengaged and change any gear without grinding the gears but if you put it in neutral at any time and engage the clutch and then disengage the clutch again,you can 't get it back in gear without grinding.With the engine off and the clutch disengaged,I can reach underneath the tractor and turn the shaft by hand.Any help would be appreciated!
 
Did you change the pilot bearing? Were the splines free of rust and did the clutch plate slide freely on the shaft?
 
Try this for a little more info.
With it in 4th gear (the gear does not matter), start the tractor (clutch in).
With clutch pushed in fully, take it out of gear. Wait for 10 seconds. (clutch still in).
If you now can put it back into gear with little or no grind, the clutch is OK. If it is grinding badly again, the splines on the clutch shaft, pilot bearing, or a warped disk are causing drag.
If it shifts with little or no grinding as above, and you still hate the idea that if you let out the clutch in Neutral it grinds there are three solutions.

Wait 20 seconds before putting it in gear.
Change the trans gear oil to 80-140 multi weight oil.
Get used to the minor grinding.
I was used to it in 1955. JimN
 
Try this for a little more info.
With it in 4th gear (the gear does not matter), start the tractor (clutch in).
With clutch pushed in fully, take it out of gear. Wait for 10 seconds. (clutch still in).
If you now can put it back into gear with little or no grind, the clutch is OK. If it is grinding badly again, the splines on the clutch shaft, pilot bearing, or a warped disk are causing drag.
If it shifts with little or no grinding as above, and you still hate the idea that if you let out the clutch in Neutral it grinds there are three solutions.

Wait 20 seconds before putting it in gear.
Change the trans gear oil to 80-140 multi weight oil.
Get used to the minor grinding.
I was used to it in 1955. JimN
 
these were the best shifting trans. and i dont ever recall having to grind a gear. compare that to the 560 and you see a big diff.sure seams like its hanging up on the splines.did you clean them shiny clean?, and make sure it slid back and forth good. and no grease either.how was the pilot brg.?
 
Its not a syncronized trans. They are going to grind a little unless you do as suggested below. Now if it never goes in gear and all it does is grind, then you have other problems.
 
With the aid of a helper we can start the engine with the shifter in netural and clutch pushed in by looking thru the belly pump hole the shaft starts to spin slowly but you can shift the trans. into gear with little or no gear grind, but if you release the clutch with trans. in neutral the shaft spins at engine speed if you push in the clutch it never seems to slow down no matter how long you wait and it is almost impossible to shift it in gear unless you stop the engine. Thanks to all who replied!!
 
I had exactly the same problem. It went away when I bought a new clutch disk. In my case, I suspect that the disk had a slight wobble which would continue to turn the gears.
 
I would pull the clutch shaft out one more time and polish up the splines. Make sure there are no burrs on it, and call it fixed. Putting heavier oil in the trans is also a partial solution. They do grind some!! JimN
 
Try this. Shim between the presure plate and flywheel with a 1/2" washer. Do this with all the cap screws holding the presure plate to the flywheel. It's worked for me.
 
Thanks for all of the sugestions I am going to remove the clutch again and recheck everthing again.Thanks for all the help and patience
 
Today we removed the clutch and checked everthing again and shimed the pressure plate out 50 thousands and now you can shift it into gear after pushing the clutch in for several seconds.I know this might not have fixed the real problem but it is liveable for now.
MANY THANKS FOR ALL THE HELPFUL INFORMATION
 
Today we removed the clutch and checked everthing again didn't find anything specific wrong has new pilot bearing rebuilt clutch and pressure plate throwout bearing cleaned splines put back together same problem. Removed clutch again put in a 50 thousands shim under pressure plate and now it is livable . Thanks to all for the good advice.
 

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