Distillate manifold thoughts.

Mike CA · Oct 13, 2009

I have a distillate manifold on my '44 H. I'm switching the tractor back to original, so I want my manifold to work "correctly". This manifold might be difficult fix up. It's got some sort of coating on it, so I can't even read the part number. One of the heat shield studs is broken off, and the other is covered with the coating. But here's the hardest part: The selector handle is broken clean off. A guy with a junk manifold sent me the selector valve he literally cut out of the manifold. So, I may be able to replace it. But then I have to get the coating off, replace the studs, and then HOPEFULLY be able to do "whatever" to the inside to get the heat selection to actually work.

This morning a restored manifold went up for auction, but the price went through the roof very quickly, so that's out.

At my local junk yard is a '39 H with a manifold on it. I'm looking for your opinions of it. It's got a selector valve. It's got the studs. But it's pretty rusty on the top. I'm wondering if it fully restorable?

Athol Carr · Oct 13, 2009

The one in the scrap yard doesn"t look too bad. It may be locked up inside, I do not know how easy they are to free, My Super A and W-4 both need the heat control unit freeing up!

Wardner · Oct 13, 2009

Do some searches on "electrolysis" here and on
Google. It is a DIY technology and cheap too. It
is non-hazzardous as well. If your children are
old enough, it might be a good educational
experience for them.

Although I have never tried it, I believe it can
make some, if not all, iron oxides disappear from
parts. It will reach into inaccessible places.

There are four stages of rust and each one has a
different chemical signature through the addition
of oxygen atoms.

TractormanNC · Oct 13, 2009

Mike, If you really want a distillate manifold, you better grab that one ASAP. Unless there is something wrong with the back side it's about as perfect as you will find this day and time. Haven't seen one that looks that good in over 40 years.

D Slater · Oct 13, 2009

Agree with Tractorman from what I can see it would be hard to find a better one. If the valve is set to run on gasoline, I would leave it set there and forget it. Unless moved regular, it will be stuck agian. If you want to be picky the cast # would end with DB on a 44 and the date code is wrong. Can't tell in the picture for sure, but if the manifold is on the original head the mounting studs should be 3/8 diameter. If so you may have to enlarge the holes in the manifold to fit your heads manifold mounting studs.

glennster · Oct 13, 2009

mike, if the price is right, you may want to grab the distillate head off that rascal too, its a low compression head for distillate or kerosene. prolly getting harder to find, a lot of the old ones were converted with the high compression head to run gas, the old heads got tossed.

Mike CA · Oct 13, 2009

(quoted from post at 04:49:42 10/13/09) Do some searches on "electrolysis" here and on Google.

Yeah, I was wondering about that. I'll look more into it. Thanks!

Mike CA · Oct 13, 2009

...you may want to grab the distillate head off that rascal too, its a low compression head for distillate or kerosene...

How can I tell the difference?

And would it be important if I only plan on using gasoline? I want a working distillate manifold so I can show how they were used. I can show that the handle goes up and down. But I really don't see me putting kerosene in there.

rustyfarmall · Oct 13, 2009

Mike, the cylinder head part number is on top of the head, but underneath the valve cover. If I remember right, the number will be somewhere towards the rear, but more or less in center. The part number for the distillate head is 8776, and the number for the high compression gasoline head is 8043. I assume that since your tractor was originally a distillate tractor, it most likely still has the original head also, but I am only assuming.

"Hint"--- the 8043 head is more valuable than the 8776.

Mike CA · Oct 13, 2009

Next oil change I'll try to remember to look. For now, what does it mean to performance? I may try it in a tractor pull for the heck of it one day, but honestly, I'm more likely to be pulling Girl Scouts on a hay wagon. Will the different heads make any more or less of a difference to my use?

Mike CA · Oct 13, 2009

...If you want to be picky the cast # would end with DB on a 44 and the date code is wrong. Can't tell in the picture for sure, but if the manifold is on the original head the mounting studs should be 3/8 diameter. If so you may have to enlarge the holes in the manifold to fit your heads manifold mounting studs.

The casting code is the one under the part number, correct? So it's [b:a4473d4f15]12-6-I[/b:a4473d4f15]

As far as the studs, if I have a low compression head, as I suspect I do, the studs should be fine? The studs currently on my H seem to be different lengths. So I was going to get a new "Manifold mounting kit", along with the new gaskets.

rustyfarmall · Oct 13, 2009

Mike, the casting code 12-6-I designates December 6, 1939, BUT, the casting code has nothing to do with the part number of the head. The part number of the head is not visible until you remove the valve cover.

Also, for the way you will be using the tractor, it makes absolutely NO difference which head you have. Low compression, high compression, either way, MAKES NO difference.

rhouston · Oct 13, 2009

There are many posts about electrolysis on this site. Many are on the Tractor Talk forum. The best thing about it is its a passive process meaning you set it up and let it work until its done. Then you just have to clean the black iron off dry and prime. It is however a line of sight process. Electrolysis only occurs where current can flow between the scraficial metal and the part being cleaned. So you would have to stick some metal up into the manifold opening to clean inside there.
A good site on Electrolysis

Mike CA · Oct 13, 2009

...Electrolysis only occurs where current can flow between the scraficial metal and the part being cleaned. So you would have to stick some metal up into the manifold opening to clean inside there.
A good site on Electrolysis

Good tip. And thanks for the link. I'll start reading.

Tom Fleming · Oct 13, 2009

Mike, grab the one in the salvage yard. I bought one off eBay, and it is not nearly in as good shape as the one you picture. I also got the butterfly valve working, it took me 2 days. Lots of PB Blaster, a brass 3/4" drift, soldering torch, and a 10 oz ball peen hammer..........and lots of patience. The cover studs were also broken off, but that was a simple, drill and tap process to get them out. (and they are still 3/8" with nice clean threads now).

Mine is ready to go to the machine shop for cleaning in the dip tank.

as always, IMHO.

Mike CA · Oct 13, 2009

I've heard of the "dip tank", but never knew what it was, exactly. What is it, and what will it do for your manifold?

Mike CA · Oct 13, 2009

I looked up a replacement pipe, figuring I could save myself some work. It looks really good, but it costs about as much as I'm going to pay for the whole manifold!

Oh well.

Tom Fleming · Oct 13, 2009

Mike, a dip tank is what they use to boil/clean blocks and heads, etc. When you have a block boiled, it removes all the rust, grease, etc. to prepare for any machine work. I am having the manifold boiled to clean it out (inside and out).

John - OH · Oct 13, 2009

I think if I was you I would grab that manifold. Looks to be in pretty good shape. They aren"t that hard to free up. Patience, heat, and penetrating oil. I am stressing the patience. I restored my 40 H to distillate, not because I plan on running it that way, but because it is something you don"t see everyday. Maybe someday I'll try running it on distillate. It might be neat.!?

rustyfarmall · Oct 13, 2009

I doubt if you'll ever run it on distillate, simply because it is no longer available, but you should be able to run it on kerosene if you can keep the temperature up.

Mike CA · Oct 13, 2009

Sounds good Tom. So a "Machine shop" can just be found in the phone book? Actually, scratch that. I'll ask the tractor club people who they use. 8)

Tom Fleming · Oct 14, 2009

Mike, I would check with any of your local auto parts stores and ask them if there are any engine rebuild machine shops. Tell them you have a manifold you want to have cleaned in the dip tank or "boiled". If it is a decent auto parts store, they will know.

Distillate manifold thoughts.

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