Noticing the radiator fins on my M were about 15% blocked off with debris, I used the garden hose to flush the fins from the back side. Also pulled out several small twigs embedded in the fins. Cleaned up nice but now I have a leaking radiator. Leak appears to be somewhere in the fins about half way up on the radiator and closer to one side, possibly where one of the twigs was removed. So what are my options?

1. Is it advisable to try one of the "Stop-Leak" products and hope this seals it off?

2. Can a radiator service shop repair this sort of leak and would it be necessary to remove the radiator from the tractor?

3. Would it be better to consider a new radiator and if so, where is the best place to obtain a quality replacement?

I've never had the radiator off and in looking it over I get the feeling it may not be all that easy. In addition to the upper and lower hose connections, I see four bolts on each side which are reasonably clean and easily loosened up. Then I understand there are two studs somewhere on the bottom side that I haven't found yet. Also, the steering shaft passes through the radiator which will have to be removed. Have I missed anything?

Any advice, tips, words of wisdom, etc., will be much appreciated.

M. Ware

It will cost very little to dump in a couple containers of Silver Seal, and that might just fix it. If it doesn't you're not out much money, and then it's time for a trip to the radiator shop. Removing that radiator is not that big of a deal, unless those bolts underneath don't co-operate, and then you might learn some new words.

I never took one off of a M but I would take it off and take it to a shop. No stop leak!!!!!
Have them clean the inside good while it"s there.

I don't use my M much, but it has had Bar's Stop Leak in it for 16 years, big hole in radiator, probably 3 or so tubes broken. Would likely overheat under full load. It does not leak -- at all.

If it were my tractor I would use radiator stop leak. Over the years I have had good results with these products. If you are somewhat mechanical you can remove the radiator your self. Take your time, look things over and don t get frustrated. A new radiator will set you back $450.00 to $600.00 so the stop leak for $4.00 will save you money if it works. A radiator shop - may - fix a leak. Look for older shops with grey hair doing the work. The younger guys only want to recore or sell you a new radiator. I had 2 radiators recored last year $585.00 and $565.00.

I'm not a fan of stop-leak type fixes, but I can see I'm losin' that argument before I even chime in so I'll hold my peace.

But . . . a good and colorful vocabulary is essential to any such job. I call it verbal lubrication.

That said and moving on to the question about nursing the bolts off the studs on the bottom of the radiator, it's not an ugly job. They're just in a place that nothing but an open-end wrench will get in there, and you don't get very much for every turn, so it takes longer to wind it off. Kinda like the old days, before grandpa had a ratchet and sockets.

I use Bars-Leaks with excellent results, and I work my M's.

Bars Leak will cure it, no problem. ---Harold

I'm not a fan either, but I put the stuff in my M before I even considered "restoring" it. If and when the restoration gets done it will get a new radiator. My 460 had a similar problem, but a smaller hole. Since this was a "restoration" I took it to a radiator shop, and asked the guy to see if he could fix it, but to also get me the price of a new core. He found that he could fix it, and did not check the core price. I was a little disapponted, because I really didn't want to put the old radiator on a so-called restored tractor. At least the hole isn't visible with the fan shroud on.

Stop Leak only for a temporary fix. It will eventually plug up your radiator and you will still have to take it off and fix.

Just brought a radiator in to be fixed. I accidentally put a hole in one of the tubes, felt stupid, then paid to have it fixed.

Depending on if you can find the leak you could repair it yourself by soldering. I didn't feel comfortable doing that so I brought it to a shop. They fixed the tube, cleaned the radiator, pressure tested to 20 psi, and re-painted it for $97.

Well worth the money.

If you put a box of pepper in the radiator it will solve the problem permanently. Or you can pull it out and pay the shop, your choice. I have used the pepper with good results. The only draw back is it will always smell like the pepper can the rest of it"s life.

Scotty,
As for removing the nuts from the studs at the bottom of the radiator, you said only an open end wrench will work. However, on my "M" there are access holes directly below each stud through which a socket and extension fit nicely. The nuts have a lot of grease on them and turn easily so they should be easy to remove. Feels like there may be a spring and washer on the end of each stud. Now I need to know how to get the steering shaft separated and out of the radiator.