H rear wheel removal

Hi guys. I bought a set of used rims/tires for the rear of the H. Look to be in good shape, non-loaded. The rims currently on the H are rough. They still hold up, but I don"t know how one of them is doing it. The metal is just flaking off from sitting a LONG time and the CaCl leaking. The nuts and bolts holding the wheels on are very, very rusted, to the point the metal is actually coming off one of the nuts just sitting there. I could use some advice to getting the current wheels off so I can mount the new ones, after a decent sand/prime/paint (tires on). Thanks for your advice, as always. Unfortunately, it"s getting close to the time to put the tractors away for the season. Already had a few hard frosts here in northern Michigan.

Soak them for several days with several applications of your favorite penetrating oil, PB Blaster,Kroil etc. Then give it a try. If they don't break loose then torch them off and replace the bolts. If the rim is as bad as you say I would think about taking the tire off and sanding and painting the inside. What ever the condition of the rim on the outside, the inside is usually alot worse.

If you don't already own an oxy/acetylene torch set-up, now is the time to get one. Plan on just destroying all the nuts and bolts and replacing with new.

were are you in northern michigan? I'm in cheboygan. I've got two H's, one wide front and one narrow.

were are you in northern michigan? I'm in cheboygan. I've got two H's, one wide front and one narrow.

Soaking in magic juices or heat (either to warm things up so they break loose or cutting them off) are both good ideas.

Only caution I'll add is if you use heat, especially a cutting flame, pull the valve cores out on your tires. You mention CaCL. If the tires are quite full, it won't be so critical, but if you've unloaded them to where it's mostly air in there and the tires are up to a working pressure, you can blow one up (NOT pretty!) if too much heat transfers from the rim to the air in the tire. Pull the core, blow some air in and make sure it blows back out, indicating a good vent, before you start. Only takes a minute and worth the effort.

Not a bad idea if they are loaded, either. Just position the valve at the top and remove the core as descibed. You probably wouldn't get things hot enough to boil the water/CaCl solution, but making steam is worse than heating air. If they are still loaded, you'll want to have either a chain fall or an engine hoist to hold them up or make sure you have a clear area beside them for them to fall away, and position yourself and anybody else around so that you're out of the way when they do.

3/4 inch air impact with 125 psi ought to either twist the nuts off or shear the bolts. And a helper to hold the bolts on the back side.
What's that about painting the rims with tires on? Sandblast epoxy prime and paint those new/used rims before you mount tires on them.

Gordo

Hi all. Thanks for the advice. The rims I would like to put on already have tires mounted. I could take them to the tire shop and have them de-mounted then clean/prime/paint. I think that"s a good suggestion...thanks!
I had a chance to pull the tractor into the garage today and grease it up well. One of the rims doesn"t look too bad on the outside, so I think I"ll have that tire taken off and see how the inside looks (when I can actually get it off the tractor). The other rim is shot. I can"t believe it"s still holding up, actually.

Ryan..I'm in West Branch. Not all that far away!