Rusty gas tank on an M

Marty from MN · Sep 23, 2009

I've been fighting rust flaking off the inside of the gas tank on my M since I got it running last spring (was sitting for a few years when I bought it). I've had to drain the tank and clean out the sediment bowl and fuel shut off about 5 times this summer.

I've talked to some people about lining the tank. No one that I talked to has ever had good results with lining a tank. I've tried pressure washers and a chunk of chain rattling around on the inside of the tank.

Has anyone ever split the tank on the seam and done a thorough cleaning, then bolt the two halves back together? Seems to me that splitting the tank would be the hard part.

Any other thoughts on how to get the rust cleaned out?

Mike CA · Sep 23, 2009

A spray-in sealant/liner was used on my H, and it leaked down into the sediment bowl and fuel system, ruining them... which stopped it from running 20 years ago. Luckily the owner bought a NOS tank at an auction, and I used that. So, liners and sealants are bad IMO.

What I've read on this forum over the years is that taking the tank off, filling it with nuts and bolts, and putting acetone (I believe) in it, then strapping it on the back of a tractor for a day or 2 while it bounces around doing field work, will clean out the flaking rust. Then take it to a radiator, or some such shop, to have it boiled.

No good will come of splitting the tank.

Brian Love · Sep 23, 2009

fill about 1/4 way with gravel rotate on a wheel slowly or turn and shake turn and shake mine sat 40 yrs turn and shake hasn't failed yet havent even needed to clean s. bowl

Animal · Sep 23, 2009

There is a radiator shop close to me here in Mo. that I take tanks to. They boil them out and put liner in them and I have had them do a dozen for me over the years and have nothing but good to say about them...however I have tried to do it myself in motor cycle tanks with very poor results.

Bill in IL · Sep 23, 2009

Got the same problem on my H. Blasted it with the pressure washer and turbo nozzle and it looked good on one side of the baffle. I don't have a clue how to get to the other side of the baffle. Till I can get brave enough to put a liner in it I cut about an inch of brake line and put it in the inlet to the sediment bowl so it has to draw gas from higher in the tank leaving the sediments in the bottom of the tank.

soybeanjoe · Sep 23, 2009

Never have split a gas tank & bolted it back together after cleaning but a few years ago we had a diesel fuel tank on a semi tractor split, plate welded in to make a small compartment on one end & welded back together. But you might have trouble finding a shop willing to weld on a gas tank.

On gas tractors with rusty tanks what I do is drain, throw in a handfull of 3/4" raocks then roll / shake it to knowck the rust loose then spray it out with a pressure washer and finally rinse with gas.

Next I take the sediment bulb housing ot of the bottom of the tank, drill out theinside of the opening that goes inthe tank, insert a short piece of 1/4" copper tubing so that it stucks up about 1 1/2" above the filter housing into the tank, and screw back into the tank. That way if any rust flakes off in the tank it will settle below the top of the tubing & not get into the fuel line.

You might loose 1/2 - 1 gal of fuel capacity in the tank but you're not always getting the line / screens plugged with trah & rust flakes.

gene bender · Sep 24, 2009

They can be fun i have used the red cote with success. You can drain the tank then put a little standpipe on the inlet of the sediment bowl this will let the small stuff gather at the bottom but not get into the system this has worked. You can flush the tank after a time and flush the bottow and sooner or later it should vlear up. You can also have the tank boiled. Miratic acid will also clean to bare metal but then the tank will need to be coated. Neighbor used carb cleaner says it ended his problem.I cleaned on with a tumbler using soap and some 1/4 nuts that one came out just fine. I also have used the little plastic see thru Fram filters coming out of the sediment bowl placed so you can see when they get plugged as the screen in the bowl does not get the real fine stuff and after a timethe problem is gone. Have one that has been on thre 3-day tractor rides with out any problems so the tank must be clean now. Good luck

Hugh MacKay · Sep 24, 2009

Marty: Small stones work better than chain. Count them as you put them in, add about 1 gallon of gas. Best way to roll tank around is fasten it to drum of a cement mixer or similar device, let it roll for an hour, then rince well. Your not doing it long enough by hand

Personally I've never bothered with coatings. Keep them full of gas and you don't get new rust. I've got tractors with 20 year on them since I cleaned the rust out, running no problems.

Anonymous-0 · Sep 24, 2009

Couple options:

1) Drain the gas and allow it to dry out completely. Do the stone tumbling thing. If you don't have a cement mixer, have heard of folks tying it on to the wheel of another tractor then go out for a ride. Dump the stones, then use an air hose to keep the stuff stirred up, and a vacuum cleaner down inside to vacuum up all the crap.

2) As mentioned earlier, I have also done the copper tube trick. Dropped the fuel bowl out of a couple tractors, inserted and soldered in a 2" piece of copper tubing. The tubing is pinched shut on the top, and cross drilled with a couple dozen 1/16" holes. This will allow scale to accumulate in the tank and not plug up the flow of gas. Pieces small enough to get thru the 1/16" holes will settle out in the glass.

mkirsch · Sep 24, 2009

I gotta ask: How exactly do you propose to "BOLT" the gas tank back together?

Fixer · Sep 24, 2009

Currently working on a 400 for my buddy. Previous owner cut two holes in tank, then sandblasted inside of tank. Then welded covers over holes. Worked. Bernie Steffen

Dr. Bert · Sep 24, 2009

Marty: Go to an aviation supply store and buy a can of "slosh compound" used in airplane tanks to seal leaks. I use this quite often on rusty tanks. I clean them as well as possible, dry them thoroughly, pour in the compd, drain off the excess, and let the tank dry. Covers and glues down the rust and fill any pin holes. Good luck--Bert

Hugh MacKay · Sep 25, 2009

Marty: This rust situation has never been a problem on high hour working tractors. I farmed for years, never heard tell of it until I retired. Today my tractors sit around too much. If one leaves them empty of fuel you get rust on inside of tank, leave then full and get a shelac type build up. Just no picnic, you've got to keep tractor working.

When I think back, one of the most annoying problems I encountered was a kernel of corn in the diesel combine tank. Gosh that thing was annoying, and the worst part we couldn't get it to come out. Every time we flushed tank it seemed to stick behind a baffle. Damn thing was swelled by fuel and when that thing sucked into fuel pickup, it soon brought combine to a standstill.

Adrian · Sep 25, 2009

I had the rust problem in my 300u. A inserted a fuel filter in the gas line. Works fine, when the filter needs changing, you will know!

Rusty gas tank on an M

Marty from MN

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Mike CA

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Brian Love

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Animal

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Bill in IL

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soybeanjoe

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gene bender

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Hugh MacKay

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Anonymous-0

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mkirsch

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Fixer

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Dr. Bert

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Hugh MacKay

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Adrian

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