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farmall h bolster gear removal

J

jbeard

New User
I have the typical worn gear in the steering bolster on my H. What I can"t seem to do is get the gear off of the top. The bolster is clean with no rust and I did get the steering shaft out. any ideas?
 
jack up the front of the tractor if you have not none so already. then place a piece of brass or alumium on top of the shaft hit with a 3lb hammer. works very well, but you need the brass or alumium or it just bounces off the shaft and does not make a solid hit.


Andrew
 
The gear is on a tapered spline at the top of the shaft and can often be a stinker to get to break free. Here's how I do it:

1 - Jack the front wheels off the ground. (Jack beneath the clutch housing then crib for safety!)

2 - Remove the lower bolster/front wheel assembly by undoing the 4 bolts thru the the mating flanges. Be sure to note the position of the extended head stop bolt - this bolt must be reassembled in the same location!

(Removing the mass of the bolster/front wheel assembly from the pivot shaft greatly enhances the effectiveness of the hammer blows that will follow...)

3 - Remove the castle nut from the top of the pivot shaft, turn it over and thread it back on until it is just flush with the top of the shaft. This is to prevent mushrooming the pivot shaft threads in the next step.

4 - Lay a thin scrap of brass, copper, aluminum or what have you on top of the pivot shaft to protect the nut/threads, then give it a lick with the biggest hammer you've got. With luck the shaft will pop free of the gear - the nut will keep it from dropping out of the upper bolster.

Good luck!
 
In addition to Bob and Andrew's good info, Putting down force on the flange under the bolster does not hurt. As does heating the gear with a propane torch (not oxy) till very warm. JimN
 
Thanks guys! I'll try that. I was afraid to hit it, real hard. I didn't know they were that tough.
 
I am assuming that you want to rotate the gear and that you have a full gear like the later tractors.

The is no need to remove the gear. Remove the lower bolster, turn the vertical steering shaft 90 or 180 degrees, and reattach the bolster. You now have virgin gear tooth surfaces making contact with the worm gear.
 
Most Farmall guys don't uderstand the physics of how the steering shaft and the steering shaft worm gear and the vertical shaft gear operate. When you turn the steering wheel the shaft won't begin to turn the flat gear until the steering shaft meets resistance. One way against the front shaft collar,the other against the rear shaft collar pulling against the collar stop on the horiz shaft. If you have play there in either direction you are going to have that 1/4 turn of the steering wheel before the pivot shaft and gear start to turn. This is much more critical than the minute wear on the gear.First make sure there is no gap between shaft and end plug, and no horiz shaft play forward from driver;s seat.
Check end gap by inserting piece of cardboard in the cap and tightening it down TIGHT and then remove and see how much the cardboard is compressed. That is the forward end play.Loosen the two collars at the pedestal and snug them up against the pedestal insurint that all the allen head keys are in and TIGHT! and there is almost zero end gap.

Gordo
 
Ya but,

You say minimal wear but why did IH replace a sector gear with a full gear? And yes, I always check horizontal shaft end play before doing anything else with the steering.
 
The steering gear is not the full round type it is the 2/3 type. I will not be able to rotate it. THe gear is worn and does need to be replaced. While I"m in there I plan on replacing the worm gear shaft and checking the bushings and bearings. Hopefully I can do it once and do it right and get another 63 years out of the old girl. Thanks for all the advice. As soon as I get the gear off I"ll post back.
 

Worked great! I hit like no tomorrow though. I had to use the back of my 12lb. splitting maul to do the job. Thanks to all for the help!
 
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