FOUND PROBLEM!!! Farmall 504 Clutch Issue (pics)

For those reading that do not know or have forgot here is the skinny. The clutch suddenly would not release clean and I had a lot of gear clash. I suspected the 15-20 year old clutch (4-pad button) or pressure plate had failed or seperated. I had adjusted the linkage until I gave up and ordered the parts to do a clutch R&R.

Today I revisited the Farmall 504 in search of the problem. Tomorrow I had planned to trailer it to my fathers and split it. My parts are still arriving to the dealer tomorrow, but I'll inventory them until the clutch fully fails. I'll just set them aside by the re-surfaced flywheel I have...

Here is what I found. Mechanical diesels are wonderful, just pull out the fuel shut-off cable and crank away. I bumped the tractor over and crawled underneath MANY times looking for a sign, a sign that I was not going to have to split tomorrow. Well I found it... I'll let the pictures describe.

[b:119636bbd0]What is this?[/b:119636bbd0]



[b:119636bbd0]And this?[/b:119636bbd0]



[b:119636bbd0]Supposed to look like this...[/b:119636bbd0]



[b:119636bbd0]Here is the fix...[/b:119636bbd0]



I adjusted the clutch linkage and the TA linkage. Then I started the engine and gave it the test. Pressed in on the clutch and within 5-7 seconds, could shift clash free... That partially out pin was dragging the clutch even with the take-up against the throw out bearing in the disengaged position (clutch pedal up). If you look at the last two pics, you'll see that I am not done. I still have to adjust the release finger stud. It appears to have worked out and it is dragging against the throwout bearing. The other two finger have sufficent clearance.

Any tips on setting the finger? Or should I just "guess-timate" to match the other two? Dad said the previous pressure plate had done the same, except the cotter key did not disappear.

Clutch R&R:

Clutch, Pressure Plate, Throw out Brg, Pilot Brg, Rear Engine Main Seal and Sleeve, $300

Cotter Key from work, FREE

Experience Learned, PRICELESS...

Thanks guys,

CT

Had the EXACT same problem on a 130 about 3 years ago.

Nice pictures. Maybe I need a new camera so my
closeups look as good as yours.

For some reason, I thought you had already done a
similar inspection prior to your initial post on
this subject. I guess it was the description of
all the dust and chaff entering the clutch
housing.

Now that you have the parts sitting on the shelf,
you have nearly insured that you will never need
them. I guess that is worth something and partially offsets the cost of the parts.

Wardner I know what you mean. When you keep spare parts, rarely are they needed... But if it has a 5 week lead-time and you have 40 acres of hay on the ground with a threatening hurricane it will fail. I knew the clutch had some age on it and I had adjusted it some before. I also have used the loader ALOT moving dirt and that is hard on a clutch.

By the way, the camera is my 2nd Casio EXLIM 10.1 MP. I ran over the first one with the tractor and root rake, but salvaged the battery and memory card. It has 3x optical zoom, more digital zoom than you'll ever need and shoots excellent video. It will shoot pics at low light without a flash that looks like daytime and fits in your shirt pocket. Got this one off EBAY refurb for $115, it is over $300 retail.

When I inspected the first time it was raining and I was looking through a 4"x8" hole. I did not see the pin the first go round. But as I was waiting on parts and talking to people, it did not make sense. That is when I started bumping the flywheel around and looking HARD for a sign.

I am going to try to mow some today and try it out. It is VERY wet out, but I need to disk the land anyway. Other than TractorManNC, has anyone else had a similar issue with the clevis pin "walking" out? Where did the cotter pin go?

Any advice for adjusting the release finger stud and jamb nut while on tractor? Or should I just do it and call it good. One finger is dragging the throw out and it seems that it has been doing it for a while. The face of the bearing has wear and it is a little sloppy.

THANKS!

CT

Ajust the chutch linkage up to bring the throwout bearing into contact with the finger that is ajusted correctly. Now ajust the other fingers to just touch the bearing. Once they are all set the same reajust the likage for proper free play.

Makes sense. Thanks ET.

CT

I am glad I mentioned the prior post with the pivot point wear. Good find. The pivots do look worn though. JimN