F504 Diesel: What Parts To Change on a Clutch Swap?

I believe my Farmall 504 Diesel has a failed clutch or pressure plate. I am going to split it. I am thinking of buying parts (at least the obvious) upfront so when I split I'll have what I need.

I know clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing, and throw out bearing. I already have a surfaced flywheel. Is this all I need besides gaskets? Any idea what a rough, ball park estimate is for the parts? I will be going back with a 4 pad button clutch. I think it is 4 pad... I know it is a button clutch and holds well, when it worked.

Any tips to make this quicker or easier? I will take it to my fathers shop. He has the equipment to split the tractor (stands, overhead hoist, ect). I just do not want to get into this and have alligators bite me.

Thanks,

CT

Charles: Buy new, pressure plate, clutch disc, release bearing and pilot bearing or bushing. Check well for cracks and bent, the lever that contacts release bearing. I overlooked that one once, and it involved splitting tractor just to replace that item.

Check the flywheel closely for cracks or warping. If uncretain, consult a technician on that one. I know some warping can be plained off, but I'm not an expert. My opinion, one would have to see the flywheel in person, to give an honost opinion.

Charles, I have a website where you can check on all the parts you might need and the prices are listed as well. I just took a look myself for the 504 clutch parts and it looks like you would be safe to order everything you need before you start tearing it down. Send me an email if you have trouble navigating the site.

The one for my 460 was $254 about a year ago, no exchange. I think the core is worth $20, I decided to keep mine. Hy Capacity sells the pressure plate, disk, pilot bearing and release bearing as a kit. Got mine from Steel Wheel Ranch, drop shipped from Hy Capacity. Also they have a number to call if you have questions. If Rusty can beat the price, buy from him, or even if he can't if you wish. Steel Wheel Ranch number is 785-548-7437. The kit has all you need. Unless the 504 is different from the 460, there are no gaskets. one word of warning -- When you install it, DO NOT bolt the whole thing to the flywheel before assembly. Slide the pressure plate and the disk on the shafts, put the tractor together, then insert the bolts. There is an alignment tool, or you can use an old shaft. I would rather install it loose. You might want to have the flywheel ground. If from Hy Capacity, they know the step height, or Tractor Vet on this site might know it. It is also on their web site. That is very important. Also, pay attention to wear in the release fork and bearing carrier, along with wear in the clutch shaft, etc. They all affect the "effective" free play and cause slop. All those were worn in my 460, as I had a problem similar to yours. That problem is still not completely solved, although the clutch and TA work okay, I just have to be careful shifting to avoid clash. I wish the TA and hydraulics could accept 90W, to slow the gears down. I usually wait 10 seconds after pushing the clutch down for the TA and gears to stop turning, on the initial shift.

I have the kit (pressure plate, disk, release bearing, and pilot bearing) for $225 plus core. Check your flywheel step also. It should measure 1.188
Kevin

What is the flywheel step? I have a surfaced flywheel at the farm. I can have Dad measure if I knew what it is.

CT

Also, can I access the rear main on the D-188 during this time? I would like to change it as well. Anything special to change it?

CT

Do I understand you correctly in this step? You can slide the pressure plate and clutch disk on the shaft coming from the transmission, bolt on the engine and then get at all the mounting bolts through the starter hole? Or I am I missing something in your explaination? Sorry to be so dense.

I am not familiar with the 504, but there should be an access hole under the tractor large enough to get your hands in without much of a problem. Some tractors don't have that hole. Would be more difficult through the starter hole.

The distance between the flywheel surface and the "step" where the bolt holes are. The dimension given by Kevin is the same as the 460. The machinest is supposed to cut the step to that spec. Or, he can take the same amounts of the step as he did from the flywheel surface. The latter may not be the best way if someone previously machined the flywheel and ignored the step. The 1.188 Kevin mentioned is the same as on my 460.

So is this 1.188 in inches? As in 1" and 188 thousandths? Also, what is the benefit of installing the clutch and pressure plate loose, then tightening up after bolting the bellhousing? Is this for alignment issues? I believe there is enough room to get inside through the access cover. Can I change the rear main (engine) at this time? Should I change the front transmission seal as well?

CT

Charles: The big benefit of installing this loose is two splined shafts, PTO going into pressure plater and drive line going into clutch disc.

Back in the days of transmission driven PTO, one just engaged the PTO, got someone to stand at back and turn shaft to line splines in clutch disc. You can still do this with IPTO, however IPTO doesn't turn easy by hand and you have to jack one rear wheel to turn transmission shaft. Not an easy feat as you try to roll tractor together.

1.188 Inches. The pressure plate and clutch disk fit on different shafts because of the live PTO. Pressure plate bolts to the flywheel, and the hollow PTO shaft fits into it. Clutch plate fits on the solid shaft that goes thru the PTO shaft and goes into the pilot bearing. If you bolt the pressure plate to the flywheel before putting the front and rear back together, you run the risk of not having the clutch disk aligned properly (the main shaft flops up and down until it slides into the pilot bearing) and it can and will bend. Been there and bent it due to not knowing any better, ie stupidity. As stated you can use a GOOD alignment tool if you insist on bolting it first. I am not familiar with your engine. You have to drop the oil pan to change the main bearing, I don't know what else. Splitting the tractor is independent of changing the main bearing, you can change the rear seal then, I suppose. Changing the front trans seal (actually it is the TA seal) is up to you. You can see if it leaks once you split the tractor. Mine was not -- that is not to say it won't.

There is an access hole on a 504 that you use to grease the clutch throwout mechanism. It is fairly large so I bet you can get your hand in there. I always dread mounting engines and having to wrestle with getting the shaft into the pilot bearing. Thanks to you and this site.

Thanks to all. I"ll check the step and if it is out of spec I have a Machinist on retainer. I was asking about the rear crank seal, not the bearing. I plan to change it as well. I suspect it is leaking some. It is either the engine or trans seal, because it is oily inside the bellhousing.

Thanks again friends! Maybe I can get ol' Red back on its feet.

CT