Farmall M Pulley Removal

Melvin Ware · Sep 11, 2009

I'm still trying to loosen the water pump pulley on my Farmall M in order to replace the generator belt. I have the locknut and set-screw out but can't get the pulley to budge. Have soaked the threads with plenty of PB blaster and hammered against the pulley "hump" using a rectangular stick of oak. (Still looking for a brass rod but no luck yet.) On closer examination, I noticed the two sides on the "hump" are not square as I first thought, but angled in toward the shaft. It's the same on both sides and appears symetrical. Is the pulley made this way and for what reason or did maybe a previous owner knock the corners off while loosening and tightening the pulley? The angle makes it hard to hold anything the hump to give it a decent lick. Any thoughts or suggestions?

old · Sep 11, 2009

Get that set screw hole up to the top and then fill it with PB etc. Let it sit a day or so. Also I have found that if you tap on the edge of the pulley some that that seems to help pop them loose. Of course don't slam it real hard just some good light taps all the way around it. I have had the same problem in the past and also try it both ways tighten/loosen and some times working it back and forth will help also

Too Far Gone · Sep 11, 2009

There is threads on there,probably full of hard grease and red paint.If need be use a torch to burn that stuff off there .Soaking does a lot more good when the oil can get in there

Melvin Ware · Sep 11, 2009

I'll try putting the screw hole on top as you suggested. Do you have a good method for getting the PB up and into the hole? Also, what did you use to strike the pulley and are the sides of the "hump" normally angled as they are on mine? I also plan to clean up the threads using a wire brush and perhaps a torch as others have suggested.

SDE · Sep 11, 2009

This pulley is cast iron, made using the green sand moulding process. Hard and wear resistant, but brittle to the point that it will break when abused. The edges are sloped 1 to 3 degrees so that the metal will flow into the mould cavitity but mostly for removeability from the mould.
My work would be so much easier if that angle weren't required.
SDE

old · Sep 11, 2009

A tube from a carb cleaner can works just fine to use on a PB blaster can and that is how you get it in when it is at the top

Zach Bouchard · Sep 12, 2009

I used a torch on mine and just heated it slow and not too hot. It swelled enough to tap it loose with a peice of wood and a hammer. Then I soaked it with kroil to get it nice and free and it now threads on and off smooth.

Farmall M Pulley Removal

Melvin Ware

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old

Well-known Member

Too Far Gone

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Melvin Ware

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SDE

Well-known Member

old

Well-known Member

Zach Bouchard

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