10-20 manifold stud

Broke off a manifold stud. Welded a nut to it, still won"t turn. Afraid of breaking it off again. Any suggestions?

did you try alternating, heat then penetrating oil such as Blaster or Kroil?

If all else fails, grind the face flat (not flush.....flat). Use a center punch to mark center. start with small 1/8" drill, then progressively use larger drills until you stop 1-2 sizes smaller than the tap size for the hole. If you are lucky, and the bolt is not bottomed out, you will be able to get some penetrating oil "behind" it in the hole after you drill through.

Once you get close to the tap size for the hole, the square, fluted easy-out should work after a few days of letting the penetrating oil work.

Last effort that always works. Drill the bolt out to the correct tap size, and retap the hole.

The key here is to get the first hole centered...........

ps. left hand drills often will remove broken bolts if you have them. I bought a set just for such emergencies......

Tony,dont heat your head,I runit one by heating ,becaues the head craked.I have learned that drilling a stud out is the best and cheapest way.If your not experienced in doing this find some one that is.Dont learn the hard way

jimmy

I had a similar issue on a Small Block chevy last year. I tried the welding a nut to it and soaking the Bolt and had no luck. Went from 1/2 inch of bolt stick out to 1/4 inch of stud sticking out when it broke. Luckily I had the engine out and on a engine stand so I could tilt the motor on its side and really let the kroil/gibbs/pbblaster work on it for a month. I then tried rocking the bolt with vice grips and had no luck. I was just about to give up when a friend told me about a trick that he uses from time to time. See, at that time he had, in my opinion, the most aggrivating job in the world. He was a broken bolt extractor for a Tank (the thing with big gun and tracks) refurbishment line.

Basically you will heat the surface of the head slightly right at the base of the bolt. Not to hot to damage the head, but hot enough to open the end of the bolt hole slightly around the broken bolt or stud. Then you melt a Crayon down into the threads. You will probably need to have the head on its side so that the bolt is vertical. I don't know if you will be able to get the wax to flow in with the bolt horazontal. In my case, we got the broken end of the bolt good and hot and just melted the crayon on that, though the end of my bolt was only a 1/4 in from the edge of the head. Then you take vice grip or something that will lock on the bolt/stud and start rocking it back and forth while its still hot, the wax will aid in removing the Bolt/stud. I've only done this once and it worked that one time. My friend has claimed to use it many times when he was working on that line.

Just thought it was something that you could try.

Good luck

Thanks for the suggestions. I"ll let yu know how it turns out.

I just wanted to follow up about using heat. Yes, cold cast iron does not respond well to intense heat. However, I have sucessfully removed bolts and broken bolts using Mr. Heat, aka the "blue" wrench.

The key is to gradually heat the cast iron mass, and keep intense heat localized to the bolt itself. I have heated engine heads in the oven to 300 degrees, and then used a torch to heat the bolt itself.

Above all, what ever method you use, patience trumps all. It took years for a bolt to rust solidly into a cast iron block or head. 15 minutes will not remove it without great risk of damage.