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Which switch should I get?

M

Mike CA

Well-known Member
I have a '44 H I am wiring. This H didn't have lights, and the wiring I got it with was all "modern" (80's) aftermarket crap. So I'm rewiring it right.

It will have 3 lights, although the rear light is off a 300, and has a small black knob on it (Not original, but it's a gift). So, the question comes down to control. I was told that the 4-position would be correct, since a '44 has a cuttoff, not a VR. (not verified, just something I was told). But a 3-position would be more appropriate, since I don't need the 4th position. Unless someone knows of a neat use for the 4th position? (suggestions welcome)

So... 3 or 4 position switch?
 
If you are using a cutout you will need the 4 position switch if you want to control the charge rate.
 
Mike, you cant have it both ways, you gotta make a choice:

If you go with a Cutout Relay versus a Voltage Regulator YOU GOTTA HAVE THE 4 POSITION LHBD SWITCH becasue the gennys FLD post must wire up to that switch to regulate either Low or High charge rate.

If you want the 3 position (its a light switch ONLY) switch then you need to use a Voltage Regulator in which caze it has a FLD terminal for the gennys FLD post to connect to (NOT up to light switch).

Originality is fine if that your choice (relay and LHBD switch) while the Voltage Regulator actually does a better job of automatically controlling charge rate.

John T
 
I found the hard way that not all those switches out there being sold for use in a cut-out system are the same, though they look the same in photos. You can find a longer explanation in the archives but in summary, buy one costing around $60 instead on one costing about $30.
 
Opps, I forgot to add that I [u:739ac2b59a]will[/u:739ac2b59a] be using a VR, not a cutout.
 
Since your using a VR you can get by with the 3 positiion switch, you dont need the LHBD because you dont connect the gennys FLD post up to that light switch (i.e. you dont use the (L)ow (H)igh charge settings) ......Of course, you could get by with a LHBD as a light switch ONLY and NOT connect it to the genny......but thats not how I would do it,,,,,,

John T
 
this might confuse someone, so if you like to keep it simple, or like orignal (or original to the model series) do not read any further:

there are other switches used such as on the 56 series that could be neat to have on an older tractor if you have more than basic lighting. one variation of the switch is Off Dim Bright Rear. Rather than having the inconvienience of flipping a switch on your rear light, this switch controls the rear light functions too. Dim and bright positions control the headlights, lighting any instrument and tail lights (and flashers if equipped). the R position turns on the bright headlights, instrument lights, rear work light, and optional floodlights (bad idea but used on the 56 series--too much current through the switch); R also turns off the red tail light and flashers.
Other newer models have off, hazards only, road, and field positions.
the possibilities to modernize are endless, but so is the wiring nightmare as it would be custom. the need to or desire to is your call.

so if you like to keep it simple and close to original, ignore this post.

karl f
 
An original look, with modern functionality, is what I was asking about. I guess I would have to decide what I would want to do with the extra switch if I were to go with 4 position.
 
Mike:
You mentioned in an earlier post you were going to use a 12V generator. Then, get a 12V regulator and a 3-position switch. Don't mix old cutout systems (4-position) with voltage regulated systems. Good luck.
mike
 
Just to be clear on the 4 vs 3 position sw.

There are two switches connected to the same shaft on a 4 position SW. They are not connected electrically at all. the light sw component is just that sending voltage to the lights either through a wire wound resistor: Dim lights (D). Or directly to the lights : Bright lights(B).
The Generator charge component is a ground for the field. The field wire is connected to ground through a different wire wound resistor for (L) Low charge, Or directly to ground High Charge (H). THE charge level stays on high charge in H,D,and B positions, so that the battery stays charged with the lights on.
the L position is for day time running after about a half hour of High charge. If the operator remembered to switch the rate!!!
The generator field circuit is grounded through the case of the switch, and the metal of the electrical box/and steering post. So that extra switch is pretty much useless unles you figure out a use for a ground with a resistor in one position, and full ground in all others. JimN
 
Thanks for the explanation and the opinions, gents! I appreciate the input. Looks like I'll be going with the 3 position.
 
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