Super C Clutch Adjustment

I just replaced the clutch on my Super C. The equipment company adjusted the fingers on the pressure plate to specifications when I picked up the part. I installed the clutch, and the pressure plate does not get released when I press the clutch peddle. I have made adjustments to the linkage to produce the most movement by the throw-out bearing and still no luck. Would adjusting the fingers on the pressure plate do the trick? Any advice on how to make the adjustment?

Adjusting the fingers will throw off the adjustments to spec that were made.

I'm wondering if you don't have the friction disc in backwards. The side with the longer neck goes away from the motor.

Yep, I'm with Scotty HOME on this one. LOL

Where in Maine? I'm in Waldo County.

The long neck side is towards the rear of the tractor...

Orrington

Did you do anything with the throwout bearig while you had it apart? What type bearing was it. My SuperC still had the old graphite-faced bearing in it. If that's what you've got, it's possible the face of that bearing is worn down to whre it won't reach the fingers. That idea only works, though, if the previous owner or whoever adjusted the fingers to make them reach.

By rights, you should see about 1/4-inch between the face of the bearing (either tyle, graphite or roller) and the fingers when the pedal freeplay is right (just under 1-1/2").

I'll be ponderin' while others chime in and check in if I come up with anything else.

Gimme a call. 322-2700.

I can almost see ya from here in Frankfort.

Are there lock bolts in the pressure plate that need to be removed? I can't remember if the C has those or not.

Some do, some don't, but that's a good idea/thing to check out! They would hold the plate back, so that Kevin wouldn't be feeling any pressure over most of the throw of the pedal other than the return spring on the clutch pedal. The fingers would be floating and could be far enough ahead that his bearing can't reach them. It would also keep him from moving.

Kevin and I talked a while ago.

His freeplay and clearance between the face of the throwout bearing are in good order, and he can see the bearing drive the fingers forward and see the fingers pull back when the pedal is released.

The disc was off the tractor in the short time he had it apart, so I'm doubting that it is stuck to to either the flywheel or the pressure plate.

The tractor moves when he bumps the starter while in gear with the clutch pedal depressed, so we ruled out the pilot bushing just making it hard to put in gear.

I'm down to three thoughts right now, the first two of them kinda out there.

1) burrs or a ridge on either the shaft or the disc keeping the disc from floating free.

2) Kevin has a new clutch because the fingers got ripped off the old one when the fork and maybe the rod that drives it got out of alignment and the tip of the rod sheared off the fingers on the cover. He has that straightened out so I'm wondering if a little better centering of the fork on the dowel that holds it in place might make the difference. I don't know how much clearance a dclutch disc neds to disengage. Is it as fine as the little bit that pads back off of automotive brake rotors?

3) It may be that he got the fork straightened out side to side, but that it is bent fore and aft like a lot of them are, so that he's at the end of his adjustment, but lacking just enough to keep from disengaging the clutch. (I'm likin' this last one best -- didn't come up with it while we were on the phone.)

Any concurrence with anyof this or other ideas?

Did you try to replace an auburn clutch with a rockford? I tried that on a B & couldn't make it work unless I changed the TO bearing too.

I actually replaced a Rockford clutch with an Auburn clutch. The parts place said that it was a different style. They checked my bearing and said it was ok... Maybe I should take it back and get another Rockford.

I vote for lost motion in the linkage, either in a shaft to lever, or in the clutch cover itself. A month ago a cover was discovered with oval pivot points for the release levers that allowed it to push in 3/4" (about) before actually pulling back on the Friction plate. If it is a rebuilt clutch, it might be that. A warped disk with a sprung hub center will not release well either. The only other item is the flywheel offset depth from bolt surface of the Clutch to the friction surface. If cut wrong, it will not work as designed. JimN

I finally got it figured out. I replaced a Rockford style clutch with an Auburn style clutch. The parts dealer said both will work with a Super C. When the Auburn clutch is bolted to the flywheel, the clutch pressure plate actually touches the clutch disk. I ordered a new Rockford style clutch and it works like a charm. A month of hassle, headaches, and splitting the tractor twice...