Woodruff key repair in P.S. shaft

SDE

Well-known Member
Has anyone used J.B. WELD or Locite to fill in around the key? Is it durable enough? I am going to switch the coupler, end for end, to get the end with good keyway over the woodruff key. The crossholes that the bolts go thru are not the same size. I am going to drill them out to 3/8 and hope that it will keep everything tight enough to keep the woodruff key from moveing around. Otherwise I will buy a .250 key and taper it down to .190 to fit the shaft.
Thank you
Steve
 
I have actually brazed woodruff keys in place. BUT great big BUT. You've got to get it right first time and its not a good idea if you will ever have to take something over or past it like an oil seal at some future date. MTF
 
Best of all possible is to have the shaft recut at a machine shop to enlarge the key. then broach the hub to match. Enlarging with dremel tool and patience is OK if very careful attantion is given to fit and accuracy. A jig could be made to hold a Woodruff cutter in place on the tractor.
Another alternative is to use the Keyway broach to make the cut in both the shaft, and the hub. Then use a square Key instead of the woodruf key.
(stronger) JimN
 
If you are looking for a quick fix like that I would say to use the epoxy putty sticks. The kind you have to knead to mix cause. It seems pretty tough when its cured but never used it like that before.
 
Jim:

That sort of reminds me of Tom Sawyer. Becky Thatcher called him "Thomas Sawyer," and he responded, "That's the name they lick me by. I'm 'Tom' when I'm good."

In my case, they lick me by "Carlton." I'm "Mark" when I'm good. :)

Mark W. in MI
 
Don't know what steering your working on, but the steering kits for IH Ms 450 ect. that used chr-lyn units, used sprial roll pin or a double roll pin, one inside the other the splits 180 degrees. no keys.
 
Don't know what steering your working on, but the steering kits for IH Ms 450 ect. that used chr-lyn units, used sprial roll pin or a double roll pin, one inside the other the splits 180 degrees. no keys.
 
I am a fan of JB Weld but there are better products for your application. The epuxy sticks are much better in thAT application. I would probably fill in the key way with braze and then cut it out with a rotary tool ( dremel etc.) Leaving one side original would be a benefit. The best repair would be to fill it and and have a new keyway cut at a machine shop in the shaft Henry
 
I am going to make a new coupling. The damaged shaft will need some repair. It has been suggested at work, that I could form a piece of copper tubing ,to fit into the woodruff key slot an weld the shaft. Has anyone else heard of something like this?
Thank you Steve
 
I was wondering if roll pins would work for this. The holes are .382 in both shafts. Is that too big for a roll pin?
SDE
 
The epoxy is not a reliable fix.

Stepped key is your best bet.

Make it tight, a light tap fit with a hammer and you'll have no more trouble.
 
Loctite Quick Metal 660. It is an anaerobic compound like the rest of the Loctite family and set in the absence of air. Sets in 10 min, full cure in 22-24 hours. GOOD STUFF. If you do not use a release agent, a little heat will let it be removed later.

Tomorrow I am going to use it on my JD 616 rotary mower. The blade holder hub had got loose before I got it and beat up the splines. JD only wants $578 + tax for the part. I paid $550 for the mower. The gearbox is ok. I had a 3" washer made, 1/2" thick out of 4140 tool steel. I am also going to drill and tap the hub to accept 3, 3/8"-24 bolts (in case the bolt comes loose again I'll keep the washer!). I plan to fill the splines with Loctite 660 then torque the bolt down with my little Ingersoll-Rand 2141 3/4" impact. Hopefully it will stay together this time.

Good luck with the steering coupler. Loctite 660 is not cheap, far from it. 6ml is about $12 and 50ml is about $40. It will fill up to about 0.020" diametral clearance. Typical applications include restoring correct fits on worn shafts, spun bearings, and damaged keyways.

Some links:

MSDS
http://www.rshughes.com/images/products/docs/J5qTmjC0yjIp8ncveBi8Fw.pdf

Case Study in a Sawmill
http://hybris.cms.henkel.com/medias/sys_master/8504059296939488.pdf

Enjoy,
CT
 

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