47 Farmall H, gear oil leaking after gear oil change

wfd2

Member
Ok, amnion was right on his last post about what gear oil to use! I now have a leak...

I drained and added the correct amount of gear oil in the Farmall H. Maryland has quite a few rolling hills, and when I parked it today, the nose was pointed down a slight decline.

I noticed after about an hour, gear oil was dripping out of the inspection plate right after the hydraulic pump and before the rear.

Any ideas on how to fix this "easily"? Does anyone have an idea which seal could be leaking?

Thank you in advance!
Bill
 
Wfd2, welcome to the world of H's. That is a very common thing to happen. The seal on the driveshaft is bad, most H's are and most ran a little low on gear oil so it was never noticed. I have two H's and both leaked after draining and replacing gear oil with the proper amount. You remove the cover on the belly and the belly pump if you have one, then undo the driveshaft and you have access to the seal, turn the collar off and pick out the seal and replace..not a hard job, a little harder if you have a belly pump to remove. What you described is quite common to find in an H or an M.
 
Hi Michael!

I'm only a H owner for about 1 1/2 months, so I'm slowly finding out the quirks! My father had one when I was a child and I finally got the opportunity to get one myself! I absolutely love the tractor, and it's personality! I'll look in my parts manual for the driveshaft seal #. And I do have to remove the hydraulic belly pump. But I thought you'd have to split the tractor or something, and I wasn't really ready for that!

I appreciate your quick response!

Bill
 
I just did the one above that seal without removing the belly pump.
67 1 43308D SEAL TRANSMISSION COUNTERSHAFT OIL SEAL (Optional with 356502R91 or 356503R91)
67 1 356502R91 SEAL, OIL TRANSMISSION COUNTERSHAFT OIL SEAL (Optional with 43308D or 356503R91)
67 1 356503R91 SEAL TRANSMISSION COUNTERSHAFT OIL SEAL (Optional with 43308D or 356502R91)

And don't forget
65 1 47873D GASKET TRANSMISSION COUNTERSHAFT FRONT BEARING RETAINER GASKET

ON A SIDE NOTE! When you take the clutch spider apart be sure to take a picture. It is REALLY easy to put it in backwards.
 
HI sflem849,

Thanks so much for the very thorough reply! When the parts book lists "Optional with <partnumber>" I"m assuming that they mean these part numbers are interchangable or superceded, correct?

So I only need to do the tranmission countershaft seals you listed?

Or should I inspect all seals before ordering parts?

I also found transmission driving shaft oil seals having the following part numbers:

-70258 D
-79634 H
-357967 R91
(Parts book pg 115, item # 48)

Do you think these need to be replaced too while I"m in there?

How long did this project take you? And as another reader asked, approximate price? I"m assuming that you can get these gaskets various places online or at CaseIH?

Thanks very much,
Fellow Farmall Owner,
Bill
 
Bill-

You should be able to get all of the parts you need from your nearest IH parts counter. You could also pull the old seals out and get suitable replacements from a decent auto parts store, for slightly less money.
 
Can you give me the details on how to take apart that area so as to replace that seal without dropping the belly pump? Thanks...
 
Thanks for that info and pics. Those ready rods are a good way to take down the belly pump where do you get those from? Do you have to take the trans shaft apart at both ends or can you move if around when you undo it at seal end? thanks bruce
 
Any hardware or farm store should carry the ready rod. The shaft will slide forward some to allow you room. And again a reminder to put that spider connection back the correct way. I put mine on backwards once :(

Randy
 
Hello Randy, I used those ready rod system to lower that belly pump it worked great. I proceeded to take off that spider , got the nuts all off , one bolt came right out. The other bolts seem to be stuck,i can not turn,i tried pounding a bit but nothing. Any suggestions? Thanks Bruce
 
They have a taper to them so try and squirt some penetrating oil and put the nuts back on so they are flush with the bolt and try tapping gently. Might have to try a little heat also.
I had one that took a while to get loose tapping with a brass hammer.

Randy
 
(quoted from post at 13:50:14 05/07/13) They have a taper to them so try and squirt some penetrating oil and put the nuts back on so they are flush with the bolt and try tapping gently. Might have to try a little heat also.
I had one that took a while to get loose tapping with a brass hammer.

Randy

IIRC I turned mine and that got them loose.
 

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