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Offset Farmall Rockshaft Arm

H

Hugh MacKay

Well-known Member
Have any of you ever had trouble getting outside left rockshaft arm off the shaft. Shaft is tapered where the arm fits, looks to be held by nothing more than the big nut. It should pop right off, am I missing something? I'm using a forked bar. My puller wont hook behind the arm. Tried a big cole chisel, not thick enough and hits shaft before applying pressure on arm.

I've never had a left one off before. I've had a couple of right rockshaft arms off over the years, usually couple of cracks with hammer and they pop right off. This is my 140 and I need to remove the inside arm that operates hitch.
 
I would guess it is like a tie-rod end. Put some pressure on it and hit it on the side (90 degrees to the shaft) with a BFH. It should pop off with a hit or two.
 
Teddy is on to it. I believe in putting the strain on the bolt shank if possible, making a collar that will slip behind it is better than risking the case, or bending something inside. Then a solid blow to the side of the arm at the taper, 90 degrees to the axis of the shaft. Jim
 
Teddy: As I said I'm using a larger version of a fork designed to remove tyrods. I've already hit it damn hard with fork wedged behind the rockshaft arm. I don't want to bend the actual shaft, and bear in mind these arms are cast.

Had an e mail today from a guy in upstate NY, he claims heat it the only answer. He's never seen one come easy.
 
I think they are cast nodular iron or steel. Thus serious whacking is OK. a cutting torch (with no use of the oxygen lever) used to flash heat the arm at the taper (and avoid the shaft can be OK as well. JimN
 
Jim: Thanks, I'll adhere to that little bit of advice. I haven't got back to it since. I did leave the nut off a couple turns. I'm not working the tractor other than moving some items around the yard.
 
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