super m fuel trouble

FarmallZach · Aug 9, 2009

I have an early 53 super m and I have completley gone over it and repainted it. but now that i have been cutting and bailing hay with it here in ohio once it getts hot it acts like it isnt getting enough fuel to the carb. You can pull the choke about half way out and it will then start running really good. Even then sometimes tho it will still chug really hard and act like it aint getting fuel just pulling out of the feid in 2 or 3 gear. What adjustments could i make on the carb? any?

Anonymous-0 · Aug 9, 2009

Be sure to check the fuel strainer for trash, and you might take the fuel line loose from the carb and check flow. If their is sufficent flow the needle valve to the float may be sticking which will need to be cleaned or replaced.Try this and hopefully it will help

Hayfarmer · Aug 9, 2009

First check that you are getting sufficient fuel to the carb. I have had trouble with something in my fuel tank plugging the inlet to the sediment bowl. Check for dirt in the screen there also. If you are getting enough fuel to the inlet of the carb, there is a screen filter where gas goes into the carb, that could be plugged. You may have to open the main jet adjustment also. I believe starting point is about 31/2 turns, when I pull my SMTA hard I am at 4 to 5 turns out. I ran a M on a baler yeears ago, could never get it to pull right without haveing a little black smoke when idling.

soybeanjoe · Aug 10, 2009

On old the old letter series tractors I have purchased I remove the sediment bulb fixture from the fuel tank & solder or JB weld in a short piece of tubing so that it sticks up into the fuel tank about 3/4-1". This prevent sediment & trash in the bottom of the tank from getting sucked into the fuel line.

Another problem if it does it when it's getting hot is that your coil may be getting weak & starting to break down after it gets hot. But irst I would check out the carb. I have found the rubber tipped fuel supply needle valves you get in a lot of aftermarket carb kits seem to want to stick, either open or shut. Whenever I put a carb get in I always buy the that needle valve from CIH as I seem to have a lot more success with them.

rustyfarmall · Aug 10, 2009

A weak ignition coil will exhibit the same symptoms so don't just automatically think it is your carburetor. Also, you might want to check the clearance on the intake and exhaust valves. Could also be a vacuum leak caused by defective manifold gaskets, carb to manifold gasket, or less likely, a cracked manifold.

Anonymous-0 · Aug 10, 2009

I like the idea of the stand pipe added to the sediment bowl and I will add that I might make it even a little longer and cut a slot across it so when that loose baffle in tank or tin can the kids threw in there ends up on top of the stand pipe it will still not block the flow. Had that happen to a 450 diesel about 50 years ago. Fooled around with it on the dynamometer for quite a while until I noticed air bubbles being drawn in the water trap drain. Pulled shut off valve out of tank, could push baffle up and down in tank, cut a slot and reinstalled. End of problem as customer sure didn't want to buy a new tank.

Red Mist · Aug 10, 2009

Hayfarmer and Rustyfarmall - together - just about covered it all.....
mike

super m fuel trouble

FarmallZach

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Anonymous-0

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Hayfarmer

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soybeanjoe

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rustyfarmall

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Anonymous-0

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Red Mist

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