Stuck Hand crank connection

Hello. I went to handcrank over my 1943 M and I could not get the mechansim to move. Did not what to break anything so all I did was spray it down with WD40 and left it to set. How do I get this unstuck. How does this go together HELP. want to turn it over by hand. THANKS ALL

Steve, there are 2 places these can rust up and bind. One is where the shaft goes through the bolster, and the other is the slotted "cup" that engages the front of the crank. both contact points are in the bolster.

I would continue with a penetrating oil, and occasionally use a mallet to rap on the rod, using moderate blows to drive it back into the cup. However, make sure that you have pushed the rod all the way back before rapping on it. if you get it to move a bit, you will then need to use a long drift to drive the cup forward into the bolster base. You can also apply heat to the assembly to assist. heating the bolster is not really practical, however, heating the rod and the cup, and then alternating with a good penetrating oil will generally produce results as the expansion and contraction will loosen or break the rust bond.

I have used this technique a couple of times and have been successful. It requires patience, and DO NOT rap the rod so hard as to deform it. If this doesnt work over time, you will have to remove the bolster to get at the assembly to remove or replace.

Why would you want to handcrank your tractor? We were given electric starters for a reason. Use them and enjoy. An electric starter will never break your arm. Armand

A hand crank is very convenient for adjusting the valves.

(quoted from post at 04:20:50 08/09/09) Why would you want to handcrank your tractor? We were given electric starters for a reason. Use them and enjoy. An electric starter will never break your arm. Armand

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Maybe because he wants it to work properly? Maybe because he likes hand cranking it? Sometimes I like doing things the old way, even though I'm not a big fan of hand-cranking engines.
mike

Steve, I do have the component pieces for an M handcrank assembly. I will try to take some pics and post. It may take me a day or so, as I am headed to the county fair with my F-20 and Buzzsaw. Will be busy setting up today.

Before everyone gets into a spittin' match, consider this:

Regardless of whether you like to crank or not, if you have a distributor ignition, hand cranking will start much easier and quicker than cranking with a starter, especially when it is cold. The coil is a "step up" coil, and the output votage is directly related to the input voltage. When you crank with the starter, the voltage drop is dramatic, subsequently, the spark at the plugs. If the rest of the ignition is in proper working condition, hand cranking will give the hotest spark on a distributor system.

An old timer taught me how to cold-start by hand cranking, and it works everytime. Choke on, ignition off. 2 revolutions on the crank. Open choke 1/2 way, ignition on, then quick crank. works every time.

Now, this does NOT apply with a magneto system. In that case, you get faster and continuous revolutions, and better starting with a mag system. Although, the old-timer's suggestion works there too.

In any case, most of my shows and fair's, I take my F-2 or F-20, and rarely one of my letter series. I have no option but to hand crank. To me, hand cranking is not an issue. And for the person whose preference is to restore their tractor back to original, then so be it. I do have to admit that if I stall out on a pull, it is kind of a bummer to have to jump off to start her back up......and embarrasing.....

The great thing here is it totally up to personal preference. Nothing better than being at a tractor show or the county fair, surrounded by a bunch of kids/spectators, and fire up your tractor with 1/2 a spin on the hand crank..........and ah that deep throaty sound of the F-20 with no muffler and the exhaust elbow........ 8)

To each his own, and God bless every one of you!!!!!

Neither will a hand crank if its done correctly.

Done properly, hand cranking is safe. And, as stated by Tom, you can hand crank a distributer ignition tractor that has a battery with not enough charge to turn the engine over. I have never had one kick back on me, regardless of what the naysayers say. Been doing it since the 50's. Can't beat a crank for setting timing and valves.

Tom is right. oil down the exposed areas and then use a 4# hammer on the shaft with a piece of wood inbetween the hammer and shaft. Once you get it to mosve you can use a prybar to reverse the action. I memory serve me right there is a zerks fitting under the front end. Would help to fill that also. Mine took several days to get where it is completely free and I keep it greased just so it doesn't seize again Henry

I didn't mean to offend anybody but I prefer my tractors to have electric starters, live hyd., ind. PTO, and any other upgrades I can find to add to my tractors. Just my way. Use them and enjoy! Armand

(quoted from post at 16:47:35 08/09/09) I didn't mean to offend anybody but I prefer my tractors to have electric starters, live hyd., ind. PTO, and any other upgrades I can find to add to my tractors. Just my way. Use them and enjoy! Armand

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Nor do I have a problem with your preferences either, Armand. Everybody has their own preferences is all I was implying.... Your inpout on the forum is appreciated by me.
mike