I found a 22-36 and need help

I found a 22-36 in a barn and need some help.
The serial number is TG113471M, which I believe makes it a 1929. What does the "M" stand for? It is missing the lugs off the steel wheels, the hood and side covers and the small starting tank. The engine is free and allegedly was started a few years back. No apparent cracks in the block. I"m told the magneto was on its last legs (weak spark) the last time it ran. The fenders are in decent shape. Any idea what it might be worth? Any help would be appreciated.
Many thanks, Roland

I didn't double check, but I think M was the standard suffix for these [pretty sure everyone I've seen]. You're smack in the middle of the '29; about half of the updated 15-30 [22-36] were '29.

If it was stored in a barn it's whole life, and didn't get excessive hard use you may have a pretty nice speciman there.

Side curtains are hard to find, and I don't think anyone is selling reproductions right now, but if you can find a hood, tieing it down with wire does have a certain historical appeal though not factory correct.

If you want to use an F-4 mag, dime/dozen is only a slight exageration - you can get it fixed or traded for likely under $100. I believe 29's should have an E4 [and I like the look at that], which are easy enough to find, but could cost several hundred if you want it rebuilt.

Starting tanks can be had easy enough [I think the rebuild kits are around $75 if you have the base yet], also, you'll likely want road rings or rubber tires if not plowing with it, so I'd consider the lugs a non-issue.

What manifold? Exhuast come out by the air-cleaner or does it go straight up? The former is original, though the aftermarkets I understand are just as desirable to some people - so I don't pose the question as that of value, but the latter would make the starting tank mute.

Don't know about your area, but a non-running one around here won't likely fetch over $500 as you can easily put 10X that into it; your find might be worth a bit more if everything looks pretty well there and tight.

Just re-read, your fenders sound pretty good. That's a good thing, though on that reproductions are available for something like $300 [maybe more like $500 after shipping].

Also, on the order of curiosity, governors were often updated, does the throttle rod go accross to the carb side [orginal] or into the governor [aftermarket] ?

If it does have the original manifold, does it have the water injectors and water bowl yet? You probably won't use them often if at all, but they do complete the manifold's look.

The reason I noted the starting tank as mute with aftermarket manifolds, a cold manifold wouldn't run low grade fuel, and wouldn't need water either. So if the water tank wasn't rusted, it occasionally became a spare tank, and either way the starting tank pretty much ignored or removed.

Also, whether in the field or the barn, you could have a clutch housing [and manifold, and who knows] full of mice making a clutch tear down a neccessity.

Speaking of governors, if anyone has figured out how to get a low idle [300RPM, rather than 400 or 500] without a dead zone or wandering idle RPMS from a Hiesler governor and an original carb, I'd like to know.

It is worth looking all around the barn and adjacent sheds, garages, etc. And don't just glance around, look hard, including up. You may just find the side curtains, hood, lugs, etc. Those pieces were often taken off and hung up and never reinstalled but they were worth nothing as scrap. Even digging around in the rotted manure next to the tractor may reveal interesting parts thought thrown away. Since they don't have legs, they tend to stay where they were left for many years.

Thanks for the replies. I've got to go back and look at it (and take some pictures) to be sure about the items you mentioned. Thanks, Roland

I agree with spiffy one and look hard for the hood and side curtains.Glad you have good fenders. The e4a mag was what they come with from the factory. Look underneath it about where the bell housing comonly is it will have the casting date on it.Mine was cast on 2-15-1929.spiffy one glad to here yours is runing fine hope mine might in another couple of months.mabey I will find a hood someday.

(quoted from post at 18:25:37 08/05/09) Thanks for the replies. I've got to go back and look at it (and take some pictures) to be sure about the items you mentioned. Thanks, Roland

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For the most part, the items I noted will vary your particular interest, and perhaps restoration style [barn fresh, gett'er runn'n and paint it up, mechanical restoration to as found set-up, factory correct restoration, ect.] more than the actual value (though it may vary the price you are willing to pay; i.e. all original parts makes it more desirable if you're looking for one to bring to factory condition) it would have.

But pictures would sure be fun to see!

Andy's advice "look around for parts" is too true! The one I just fixed up, had parts dug back off an iron pile.

(quoted from post at 18:55:19 08/05/09) I agree with spiffy one and look hard for the hood and side curtains.Glad you have good fenders. The e4a mag was what they come with from the factory. Look underneath it about where the bell housing comonly is it will have the casting date on it.Mine was cast on 2-15-1929.spiffy one glad to here yours is runing fine hope mine might in another couple of months.mabey I will find a hood someday.

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Great to here yours is coming along! No doubt you'll have it purring soon!

I've seen a couple parts tractors in the past few months, even fanagled a pretty good set of fenders, but I can't help you on the hood. Actually, I may see a fellow, with a couple parts tractors, at the threshing show this weekend - I don't recall him having a hood, but is worth asking anyway. Now that I noted that, if I do see him, I'll probably forget - but not intentionally!

That reminds me, PaceF20: the engine block cast date hides behind the cold [GAS] setting loop on the original manifold, should be rather easy to find with an aftermarket. Of course, your serial number still put's it right in the middle of the '29s [roughly 30K starting at roughly 99,000] anyway.

Good luck on your find.
Around here a 15/30 or 22/36 that is not locked and pretty well complete and is expected to be a runner will go for $1000 to 1500. If they are locked but have tons of good parts 300 to 500 is the range I would expect to see. If you can get it for $500 , you have done well.

George