So far I haven't budged them. The puller just cracks/crumbles the bottom of the sleeve. What about 1. cutting them out with something like a sawzall 2. Hauling it ( the tractor) to a welding shop and have them burned out? There is not a solid bearing surface on the bottom of the sleeve for the puller to work against.
- Thread starter TWheat
- Start date
mattofvinings
Member
What sort of a puller are you using? (pics would be nice) And have you verified that you have clearance to the flange at the top of the sleeve so you are actually pulling relative to the block and not simply attempting to crush the sleeve?
Relative to the Sawzall, that's a classic method for removing a generic sleeve but I'd be worried about going too deep. I think I'd try a file or a die grinder first to create a couple notches which might create a (helpful) fracture.
IMHO while there are a few torch wizards out there that's a little too sensitive for the typical class of work. Any burrs, bubbles, or drips will create resistance and be dragged past the existing machining, creating damage.
Here is what I used on my 340's engine block recently. This worked well. The bottom puck has a pilot which clears the sleeve bore by about .020". It simply keeps the threaded rod centered. and the OD is slightly undersized as well so it doesn't drag any more than the OD of the sleeve.
Relative to the Sawzall, that's a classic method for removing a generic sleeve but I'd be worried about going too deep. I think I'd try a file or a die grinder first to create a couple notches which might create a (helpful) fracture.
IMHO while there are a few torch wizards out there that's a little too sensitive for the typical class of work. Any burrs, bubbles, or drips will create resistance and be dragged past the existing machining, creating damage.
Here is what I used on my 340's engine block recently. This worked well. The bottom puck has a pilot which clears the sleeve bore by about .020". It simply keeps the threaded rod centered. and the OD is slightly undersized as well so it doesn't drag any more than the OD of the sleeve.
ScottyHOMeY
Well-known Member
Actually, one of the tricks for gettin them out is to weld a bead or two up the inside. When everything cools any corrosion holding them will have been broken up with the heat and cooling cycle and they will have shrunk to where they should come out without much diffugulty a tall.
ScottyHOMeY
Well-known Member
Actually, one of the tricks for getting them out (more common for dry sleeves but just as useful for wet) is to weld a bead or two up the inside. When everything cools any corrosion holding them will have been broken up with the heat and cooling cycle and they will have shrunk to where they should come out without much diffugulty a tall.
Thanks for the quick replys. Mattofvinings, nice looking puller.I don't have a pic of my puller, but I have suffient clearance at the top of the flange. My bottom puck could be better, but that's not what gave out .I have only crushed one, but that is the only one I have tried . It will probably be a couple days, but I will let you know what progress I make(or don't)
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
might be wrong thought sa had wet sleeves if it does carry new sleeve to machine shop have them cut you a knocker plug to fit inside of the sleeve like the one pictured before set a heavy drift pin or block of wood against the knocker plug gently drive out with a hammer if dry sleeves use puller shown before or bore them out with a cylinder boring machine either one DON'T cut ,chip or gind them out you can cause serious damage to your block
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