Well I did it this time, again ha ha. I took the valve cover off just to see the condition of everything inside. At an idle you could really hear those valves, never really noticed it before? anyways there was a little bit of rust bubbles on some of the parts so as i was cleaning everything up i musta moved some of the valve adjustments, so instead of movin anything i was gonna ask what you all used for a gauge to set these? is it a gauge i can pick up at napa or what...can"t find my book for this stuff, guess i"ll have to pick another one up. thank you
- Thread starter TedD17
- Start date
Janicholson
Well-known Member
Valve setting
I do it this way others do a different system. It must be set cold first, so setting it twice (or once) is normal The cold setting is .020" all valves.
Take out the plugs. (turn it with a wrench, on the front nut)
Set the intake valve on cylinder #1 (Front) when its exhaust valve just starts to open.
Set the intake when the exhaust just closes.
This is the two positions that can be seen on each cylinder to be as far away from a lobe on the cam as possible while still knowing where it is.
The order is (front to back EI-IE-EI-IE)
Look at #1 valves, Turn the engine till the intake just starts to begin opening (moves) then adjust the exhaust valve. Rotate more until the exhaust just closes (just stops moving after having been open) and adjust the intake. Treat every cylinder (pair of valves shown above the same way, remembering they switch places between cylinders) I put a rag over the ones I have done to keep track of progress, and avoid mixing what I am looking at. Second setting warmed up, not hot, is .017" JimN
I do it this way others do a different system. It must be set cold first, so setting it twice (or once) is normal The cold setting is .020" all valves.
Take out the plugs. (turn it with a wrench, on the front nut)
Set the intake valve on cylinder #1 (Front) when its exhaust valve just starts to open.
Set the intake when the exhaust just closes.
This is the two positions that can be seen on each cylinder to be as far away from a lobe on the cam as possible while still knowing where it is.
The order is (front to back EI-IE-EI-IE)
Look at #1 valves, Turn the engine till the intake just starts to begin opening (moves) then adjust the exhaust valve. Rotate more until the exhaust just closes (just stops moving after having been open) and adjust the intake. Treat every cylinder (pair of valves shown above the same way, remembering they switch places between cylinders) I put a rag over the ones I have done to keep track of progress, and avoid mixing what I am looking at. Second setting warmed up, not hot, is .017" JimN
Janicholson
Well-known Member
It is gapped between the valve stem and the rocker.
You must follow the directions included, or they will be wildly out of adjustment. There are other rotation schemes that are just as good, but are not universal. A feeler gauge is a flat stainless or tool steel blade available at tool stores/NAPA etc. If the rockers are worn and show uneven wear on the tip, adjustment could be made with a dial indicator, or they could be resurfaced to smooth. This is how it is done. The feel of the gauge should be about like using your fingers to wipe cheese off of a knife blade, no more. Good luck. JimN
You must follow the directions included, or they will be wildly out of adjustment. There are other rotation schemes that are just as good, but are not universal. A feeler gauge is a flat stainless or tool steel blade available at tool stores/NAPA etc. If the rockers are worn and show uneven wear on the tip, adjustment could be made with a dial indicator, or they could be resurfaced to smooth. This is how it is done. The feel of the gauge should be about like using your fingers to wipe cheese off of a knife blade, no more. Good luck. JimN
Janicholson
Well-known Member
You are welcome, and good night. Jim
Janicholson
Well-known Member
Valve setting
I do it this way others do a different system. It must be set cold first, so setting it twice (ore once) is normal The cold setting is .020" all valves.
Take out the plugs. (turn it with a wrench, on the front nut)
Set the intake valve on cylinder #1 (Front) when its exhaust valve just starts to open.
Set the exhaust when the intake just closes.
This is the two positions that can be seen on each cylinder to be as far away from a lobe on the cam as possible while still knowing where it is.
The order is (front to back EI-IE-EI-IE)
Repaired instructions, My appology!!
Look at #1 valves, Turn the engine till the exhaust just starts to begin opening (moves) then adjust the intake valve. Rotate more until the intake just closes (just stops moving after having been open) and adjust the exhaust. Treat every cylinder (pair of valves shown above the same way, remembering they switch places between cylinders) I put a rag over the ones I have dobe to keep track of progress, and avoid mixing what I am looking at. JimN
I do it this way others do a different system. It must be set cold first, so setting it twice (ore once) is normal The cold setting is .020" all valves.
Take out the plugs. (turn it with a wrench, on the front nut)
Set the intake valve on cylinder #1 (Front) when its exhaust valve just starts to open.
Set the exhaust when the intake just closes.
This is the two positions that can be seen on each cylinder to be as far away from a lobe on the cam as possible while still knowing where it is.
The order is (front to back EI-IE-EI-IE)
Repaired instructions, My appology!!
Look at #1 valves, Turn the engine till the exhaust just starts to begin opening (moves) then adjust the intake valve. Rotate more until the intake just closes (just stops moving after having been open) and adjust the exhaust. Treat every cylinder (pair of valves shown above the same way, remembering they switch places between cylinders) I put a rag over the ones I have dobe to keep track of progress, and avoid mixing what I am looking at. JimN
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