300 utlity

I was playin with the 300U the other day and noticed two things that I hadn't before.

1. The Independent PTO was very warm almost hot to the touch without the PTO engaged. When I did an hour or so of mowing it didn't cool down or warm up. At first I thought maybe the clutch was out of adjustment but even when the mower is disconnected the shaft doesn't turn by itself when the lever is disengaged (thinking the clutches were rubbing). Could this be something out of adjustment or something more serious????

2. The Hydraulic lines were also very warm almost hot to the touch. The hydraulics were not being used much at all. I don't think the check valve is stuck because the engine wasn't laboring and did bogg down slightly when I used the hydraulics. I thought maybe the filter could be clogged but it looks like a hassle to check if it would not be the problem.


Am I crying wolf here or are these problems? I don't have an indirect thermometer to give you guys the temp readings.

JimN is the resident expert on this tractor. There are several good posts in the archives on the 300U IPTO. Sounds like you have considered the usual problems that cause heat, low fluid, air, blocked screen, stuck relief valve, etc. Now you just have to check them. One thing I learned while troubleshooting hydraulics is that a pressure guage at the coupling will tell you a lot in a big hurry. Also, the 300U is notorious for problems caused by worn and sloppy IPTO linkage. Here is a post I wrote a while back on adjusting, if you do not have a manual.
Dell

Most IPTO are similar on older Farmalls and IH. Here are some important things I learned about adjusting them.

When you have the linkage apart take the time to tighten up any slop using washers and tightening any loose nuts. This is major important.
1.Disconnect the bottom adjustable link near the IPTO housing (a cotter pin and a pin).
2.Remove the peanut shaped cover over the two adjusting screws (if it is there).
3.Then tighten the two band adjusting screws until you feel resistance then another ½ turn. This seems to “center up” the band linkage. (the front screw is the operating band and the rear is the anti creep band).
4.Now the book says to have someone hold the control lever in the center position (between engaged and stop) while you readjust the adjustable link and reattach it. There is supposed to be a punch mark to line up for center, but I couldn’t find it so I just put it in the center between the on and off notches.
5.Put a small screwdriver or bolt through the PTO shaft hole and loosen both adjusting screws until the shaft moves freely. Alternate adjusting until you get both screws adjusted properly so that the shaft moves freely ONLY with the control lever in the center position.
6.Move the control lever to on and off positions (make sure the lever clicks in each stop) you should not be able to move the shaft with the control lever in the engaged or stop position but it should turn freely in the center position.

Note: I didn’t have anyone to hold the lever in center position (4) so I readjusted and connected the adjustable link with the lever in the off position then move the lever to the center position while adjusting the band screws. It seemed to work that way.

I hope this helps anyone without a manual.

By the way, you are absolutely correct about the 300U hydraulic screen being a pain to get to. It is one of the most user unfriendly engineered screen ever produced. You have to remove the resevoir top half to get to it and then try not to squash the screen on the reinstall.

Also, it seems to me the heat from the IPTO housing and the hydro lines are unrelated, but I may mistaken.

Dell

My hydraulics also seem to run hotter than I think they should. I think the regulator maintains 35 psi in the system with 10 gpm flow, and with only about three gallons of oil, it heats up. 100 degrees over ambient is normal. My pto gets warm, not hot at all. Check oil level (hytran or equiv., not 90 weight gear oil) and band adjustment.

Delbert Has it pretty well under control. The lever pivots in a bracket on the top of the axle the shaft can have a damaged key where it attaches to the shorter arm on the other side of the bracket. Look for lost motion in the system, and remove all of it because the adjustment depends on the range of motion, and it that is shorter than new, the adjustment will cause band drag when on or off, heating the box, and wearing the bands, JimN

Thanks guys for your replies. Looks like I got some investigating to do this weekend.