farmall cub clutch won't work properly!

I needed to replace parts in the clutch of my cub during restoration, as the clutch was not working at all when I bought it. I separated the tractor and installed all new parts, then put it all back together. When I first started it up, the clutch worked fine and I could shift to all the gears with no problems. However, when I first drove the tractor, I could no longer shift gears.

I can start the tractor in gear, and it doesn"t lurch forward at all. Plus, if I am driving the tractor on level ground and push in the clutch pedal, the tractor stops. However, if I try to shift to another gear with the engine still running, there is grinding and it won"t shift.

I asked a neighbor of mine who also has a cub, and he said that he"s had the same problem with his cub ever since he replaced clutch parts over 8 years ago, and he just shuts off his tractor to shift gears.

I don"t want to have to take this to a shop to have it fixed, but I"m a relative novice when it comes to this stuff. This is my second tractor restoration, but the first one went to a shop for transmission and clutch work. I spent some time today reaching up through the access hole to verify the torque on the bolts and adjust the free travel in the release bearing, but to no avail.

Anyone have any suggestions as to what I could try, or what the problem might be?

If you have checked the clutch pedal free play and adjusted it to the factory specs, it should be OK. Then you have to look at the part(s) you replaced. Good stuff or chinese crap? Finally, did you put the clutch plate in with the proper face towards the flywheel? I'm not sure on the Cub but on some other tractors and on many cars and trucks, there is a "right side" and a "wrong side". I have put a clutch plate in incorrectly and had to "do it over again". I have a Cub (and many others but lets not get the better half riled up) and it shifts well on the run but I do have to shift slowly and let the RPMs get to the proper range before making the shift. Anyway, just a few thoughts and LOL!

I would say your Pilot bushing is sticking. there should be a brass bushing in the end of the crankshaft. you would have to split the tractor again to check it, but I would bet money that it is gauled to the clutch shaft. you can pack a small amount of grease in the bushing before you put it back together.
Good Luck Ed
abcrepairparts

Did you adjust the height of the 3 release fingers after installing it? They are not preset. Also you should check the clutch shaft to see if it's bent. You might be able to see through the inspection hole but the best way is to split the tractor, spin the shaft and watch it in relation to the throw out bearing.

-Leon

There is a right way to install the clutch on the Cub, if you put it in backwards, you will have problems. The Cub transmission also does not have synchronizers and will not shift on the fly unless you get lucky. Continuing to do this is sure to damage the transmission. To check the pilot bushing, reach up through the inspection hole and try to move the shaft, up down side to side. It may move a tiny bit, but any excessive movement is not good.
It is not the easiest to adjust the clutch through the inspection hole, but it can be done. I don't thing the pilot bushing is galled, or it would lurch during starting and would not stop when the clutch is depressed. I suspect with a little adjustment to the fingers and for free play, it will be as good as new. After you fix yours, you can fix your neighbors and both of you will be happy!!
Just split the machine and do it over. Not a hard job and one person can easily do it. Make sure you wedge the axle before you start.
Check out http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/index.php and http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/ for loads of information specific to Cubs and online manuals. Good luck.

How do I adjust the height of those 3 fingers...I did not do that after I installed it. Thanks for your help!

Thanks for your help...

How would I know if I installed something backwards? I used the diagrams in the service manual and the parts catalog to help me figure out how each part should be lined up.

How do I adjust the fingers, and what measurement am I trying to get them in line with?

Oh, and just to clarify, I'm not trying to shift on the fly. I'm trying to shift with the machine stopped but with the engine running.

I bought a new pilot bushing when I started this whole process, but I didn't know how to get the old one out so I didn't replace it. How do I get the old one out?

Thanks for your help!

To remove the pilot bushing I use a slide hammer with the singer finger that screws right onto the shaft. If that's not available, I get a hack saw blade and saw it out.

If the clutch disc were in backwards it would have wobbled on the flywheel when you installed it. The "tall" end of the hub goes away from the flywheel.

To measure the finger height the service manual tells you to measure 2-7/32" from the friction face of the pressure plate to the release bearing contacting surface of the fingers. I did some measuring and reworked a more likely way to adjust it. Measure from the center hub of the clutch disc to the release bearing contacting surface of the fingers and make it 1-21/32". You can adjust the height with the screws and lock nuts on the pressure plate where the fingers attach to it.

-Leon

Check out this "How To" over at the Cub forum, no special tools required:
[b:66c840af99]http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=22925[/b:66c840af99]