A couple questions on an H battery setup.

sflem849

Well-known Member
Tractor is a 1943 H.

I bought a battery box at RPRU this morning and I am having a problem mounting it. It is a new battery box from Farm Country. He sold me some odd looking bolts that he said it used for mounting. It looks to me that the bolts should go through the top and the box should slide out on the rails. This is not the case. The shoulder on the bolt will not slide on the rails. I then tried to put them in through the bottom and they don't quite go through the holes down there. How is it supposed to mount?

Also, how long is the braided ground strap supposed to be? The one that came with the tractor is less than a foot and that isn't even enough to get to the battery. What SHOULD it have?
 
Not sure what youre calling rails, but the box doesn't slide anywhere. It's bolted down.

The odd looking bolts should resemble eyebolts and have a wingnut. The eyes hook through loops at each end of the box, and then swing up to fit into a notch at each end of the lid to the box, and the wingnuts clamp the lid down.

After battery box lids were lost or tossed or the boxes themselves rotted away, a lot of braided groundstraps appeared. Nothing wrong with them as long as you find a good ground for them. But they don't fit well through the notches that you should find in the lip of your new battery box. Original would have been cable, with battery termial at one end and an eyelet o the other to bolt to a good chasis ground. It passed from the battery through a rubber grommet to protect it from chafing on the lip of the battery box and on to chassis.

Don't know the length, but if your tractor is six-volt, you'll want something on the order of 0 or 00 gauge cable made to a suitable length to route out through that notch. The 4 gauge common to 12v cars etc. won't carry the amperage needed to turn a starter on 6v.
 
I think I have the same 6 gauge, maybe four, anyway, small, on my Super A that were on it when I bought it 10? years ago. It starts. Wouldn't want to try it below about 60 degrees, or have to crank it too long. Only one of many things to fix someday. I think my SH has 2 gauge on it, no problem whatever with those. IMO, more important than the cable size is cleanliness and keeping the thing tuned. I don't think I have ever even seen 0 or 00 -- to each his own.
 
The head of the box bolts should slide on the support in the slots provided. If they do not fit they are not the real bolts. They should not protrude into the battery area of the box on the inside. The lid cannot come off if the box is put under the tank all the way. Thus the slots. Scotty is correct on the lid hold down fasteners, The caseih.com sight should show the bolts, though not the detail that will allow their duplication. CNKS is correct on the cable. I would make it long enough to bolt to the starter mount bolt at the housing. JimN
 
I think you mean Scotty is "correct" on the cable -- I don't always play by the "rules".
 
Just for clarification, lighter gauges like 4 will work. To say they won't was a little overboard. But they will bog you down in cold starting or long cranking situations. The former demands more amperage. The latter causes the wires to heat up, increasing their resistance. The bigger, the better.

None of which makes any difference if you don't have a good clean contact at both ends of the cable. Good "hygiene" at the battery end is a given in any situation. For the chassis end, it's just as important to have good, clean (shiny is a good standard) surfaces to ensure a good connection.
 
Looking at the parts diagram it appears I was trying to assemble things in the correct orientation. I guess the shoulders are just too big for the slots/rails. (ID - 6 Used - 2 /N - 52898D BOLT - BATTERY SUPPORT LOCK BOLT)

- By slots/rails I am talking about the two .5"x6" slots in the metal running parallel to the short side of the box. IIUC, they allow you to access the battery by sliding the box out from under the tank.
 
The bolts should be 7/16", square headed, fine thread about 1 1/4 inch long. The square heads are larger than normal so that they contact the case to keep them from turning.
 
Most recommendations are for 0 or 00 cables, a "rule" by some on this forum. I have never seen (or needed) any. But, I only have four 6 volt tractors, perhaps I haven't had enough experience.
 
I may be mistaken here, but is sounds like those bolts are for an M. The battery box mounts on the side of the torque tube on the H, and under the tank on the earlier M's.

Like I said, I may be mistaken here, and full of the brown stuff, but my .02 worth.
 
Tom,
Are you related to me!?! Same last name...hmm...

No, we are on an H. It is kind of both IMHO. it is to the left (when seated) and under the very front of the tank. Not dead center like an M.
 

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