Farmall 400 tuning problem

Hello all
Over the past year i did an extensive rebuild on a Farmall 400 that had caught on fire. I rebuilt the motor with a red power motor kit, rewired the entire thing, and put all new ignition set, among many other things. Many of the parts were off the tractor for a good 8-10 months, but were put in plastic bags, ect. I put the whole thing back togeather and got it running. It has good oil pressure (65 pounds) and cools correctly. However, I have run into a few problems. Each cylinder fires, but it still sounds sort of rough. It will idle fine, but when you accellerate from idle to full throttle, the response time is very slow (I counted roughly 7-8 seconds for it to run at its full speed) and it still seems on the slow side. When I drive it on the flat, it drives ok, but if i go up a hill in 4th gear, it bogs down harder and harder until it wants to stall, and if i dont decellerate or even push the clutch in to let the motor speed up again, it would stall. I have a new fuel tank, so I dont think its a fuel blockage problem. The carb has a new needle and seat, but it is leaking out of the very bottom of the carb. the fuel linkage also seems to bind somewhat, and it seems like its in the governor somehow. when I tried adjusting the main fuel screw, other than completely closed (tractor shuts off) it seems to run the exact same 1 turn or 5 turns out. Also, when adjusting the distributor, I can tell when its too retarded or advanced, but everywhere in between the two extremes the tractor sounds like it runs the exact same. I am at a total loss, and am getting very frustrated. I apologize for the long post, but I am trying to be thorough so perhaps some experts can give me advice or somewhere to go from here. Thanks in advance
Garrett Schorran
P.S. I took apart my distributor tonight, and the mechanical advance system underneath the plate where the points and condenser are was free (but I have no idea about adjustments...)

The governor is not working. It's either gummed/rusted up, or has missing/broken springs (can't remember which would cause sluggish response, the other causes a runaway engine).

Get the problem with the carburetor leaking gas fixed first, then start looking at the governor and all the linkages back to the throttle handle.

Make sure you get the notch and pin lined up when you connect the governor to the carburetor.

I would guess your carb is plugged up. When you open the main screw it should overfuel & smoke black. Also check that the linkage isn't binding & the gov is opening the throttle.

Unlike the earlier tractors; on the Super H/Super M -- up, the max setting is 5 turns out, meaning the tractor will likely run ok if the screw is removed and the hole plugged (I haven't tried it). Thus it is similar to the fixed jet on the C113/123 carb, except that it can be adjusted for lighter loads and better fuel consumption. The carb simply needs a good cleaning, it is too lean. However, if the tractor is not used often under full load, 5 turns out is too much -- carbon accumulation.

Like already suggested, make sure the gov to carb is in the slot, if you happen to get it on the top side, the throttle plate will only open about a third of the way and you will have no power. Timing is 25 degrees btdc at full throttle and if dist advance is in good condition it will retard to near tdc at low idle, however, the full advance is the important part. The carb has a calibrated main jet so you can lean it out a little for light work but you can't give a lot of extra fuel no matter how far you turn needle out unless someone has drilled it out. As for the leaky carb, new needle and seats are nortorious for leaking even with proper float setting. I always coin or stake seat on all new ones. I use a pintle from an injection nozzle and it works great with a few light taps with a small hammer. Just some ideas to think about.